- Jackie Mallon |
FIT together with Calvin Klein celebrated the “Future of Fashion” on Monday evening and judging by what was shown on the runway the future is upon us. These graduates are set to occupy the industry.
Across categories of womenswear, childrenswear and, particularly impressively, intimate apparel, the students’ visions also demonstrated the professional mentorships to which they are exposed. Industry critics such as Vogue Runway’s Nicole Phelps, Bergdorf Goodman’s Ken Downing, celebrity stylist Kemal Harris, and designer Sophie Theallet among others, had a hand in nurturing and selecting this year’s group but one can’t help thinking what a fun job that it must have been.
Standout ready-to-wear came from Taylor Ormond who interpreted bustles using pillows layered under white organza with a Louise Bourgeois sensibility and embellished them with meandering pastel needlework and lace applique. Jinwoo Hong’s coat dress in a burnished earth-toned print won the Sophie Theallet Critic Award.
FIT together with Calvin Klein celebrated the “Future of Fashion”
Dan Yongeun Lee’s oversized trench emblazoned with badges and road signs commanded us to “Yield,” while Celin Cardoza Diaz’s blanket coat with curving white line intersecting a vast grey landscape formed the message “Open the Border.”
Danielle Chandler’s optically bold layers of striped organza overlaid with black ribbons, and Yekaterina Burmatnova’s cosy hand-knit slouchy sweater punctuated with red dungaree straps and worn with skirt of perky godets managed to look both breezily everyday and exotic at the same time.
Bras and panties often fail to possess runway impact but between the romantic fluttering femininity cinched with a fleet of hook and eye closures and the high-octane sizzle of champagne Chantilly and smoky Alençon, the lingerie and indeed the eveningwear that might conceal it were particularly memorable. Carrie Godas subtly reimagined the bra with additional lace motif placements on a spaghetti halter, and Lara Tabak’s multiple straps, jet beading and sculptural points were tantalizingly gothic. JinYoung Kim’s three-piece lingerie set in eggplant and gunmetal was also beaded and trimmed with velvet, while Zoe Beggelman’s cinnabar red lace bodysuit left satin ribbons rippling in its wake.
Candy Lowen managed to mix all after-dark activity in one luscious cherry corseted gown with pleated chiffon and wafting train. And for the nocturnal birdwatcher, embroidered tropical birds were to be spotted perched on each tier of Natalia Herrera Cardozo’s gathered silk gown.
Caroline Sanz’s finale of Old Hollywood high waisted tiers of chiffon, organza and lace with ruffled cropped top made the model seem eight foot tall and deserving of her dramatic exit.
By contributing guest editor Jackie Mallon, who is on the teaching faculty of several NYC fashion programmes and is the author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
All photos provided by Sunshine Sachs with Getty images