Marni shows autumn/winter 2015 at Pitti Uomo

Marni was the guest designer at this season's Pitti Uomo and showed its AW15 collection at the Museo Marino Marini in Florence. The Pitti guest show is one of the highlights of fashion week, especially considering the rush between shows in Milan, this is one presentation where press and buyers can linger without fighting the calendar.

Marni has always been a go-to brand for quirky knitwear and printed shirts. This season the abstract equestrian sculptures of the venue set the mood for the house's signature bold colours and textiles.

Creative Director Consuelo Castiglioni showed a seventies-inspired easy elegance with zip-up tunics layered on wallpaper print shirts and ski-inspired trousers that ended with a flared silhouette. Bell-bottoms might look out of place on the streets of London, but here they felt enticing, even possible. The first look was a chocolate fur tunic worn over a printed shirt. These were not hints as so much a transportation back to the 70s.

Elsewhere knitwear was roomy and tactile and mixed with tailoring and jackets which featured broken lines and single vents. Collarless coats looked like relaxed cardigans and robes and double-breasted blazers had a welcoming roominess, giving a nonchalant yet sophisticated flair to the collection.

 

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