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Menswear Labels to watch

By Barbara Russ

Jun 23, 2021

Fashion

Valette Studio. All images courtesey of the brands.

In times of home offices, ever more permeable dress codes and flattened hierarchies, it is long overdue to free men, and all those who like to dress in a male fashion, from their constricting menswear corsets.

A great example of how some heroes don't wear capes - but skirts - are some male teachers from Spain who, in solidarity with a student who was expelled from school for wearing a skirt to class, are now wearing skirts to their classes as well. The hashtag #ClothesHaveNoGender (#LaRopaNoTieneGenero) sums up well what the most modern dress code of all entails: anything goes! And if it's a classic suit and tie, gentlemen, go for it!

Tokyo James

Tokyo James is a Nigerian-British luxury fashion brand founded in 2015 by Iniye Tokyo James. Created between London and Lagos, his collections emphasise the use of traditional Saville Row tailoring and break with tradition through unconventional colour and material choices - earning James a fast-growing cult following worldwide. The A/W21 collection, titled "Ogidi Okunrin" (The Strong Man), was officially launched during Milan Fashion Week in January.

Target group

"The Tokyo James brand appeals to the modern man by creating pieces that can be easily translated and curated into intergenerational and timeless garments that can also be passed down from one generation to the next,” says the PR representative. “At its core, Tokyo James creates irreverent pieces with cultural aspirations. When we introduce the brand to retailers, we look for retailers that best represent our brand. We look for retailers who understand the brand and offer unique, vibrant, and avant-garde fashion so that our brand fits well with the other designers sold."

Stockists/Agency

"We are currently working with the sales agency Ithaki Paris. Our stockists are: Dover Street Market ( New York / LA), Garage Paradis (Paris), Browns (London), The Folklore ( New York), Temple Muse ( Nigeria)."

Price points(retail)

Prices range from 175 to 3,000 pounds or approximately between 200 to 3,500 euro.

Bluemarble

Bluemarble is a menswear label founded in 2018 by Anthony Alvarez and based in Paris. Each collection takes Alvarez's Bluemarble aesthetic and focuses on a different city or place for inspiration, each a melting pot, heritage, or subcultures created by an emerging youth, and adopted influences from other parts of the world. Each season Bluemarble puts together a complete wardrobe that embodies a new paradigm built on the new values of contemporary menswear.

Target group

"Everyone! The commonalities of world cultures and the vibrancy of their youth scenes are at the heart of Bluemarble's inspiration."

Stockists/Agency

Selfridges London, Printemps Paris, Selfridges Online, 24 Sevres Online and The Webster New York, among others.

Prices (UK):

Jackets and coats from 390 euros, knitwear from 210 euros, trousers and shorts from 240, shirts from 280 euros, T-shirts from 75 euros, hoodies from 180 euros.

Weber+Weber

Austrian origin meets Italian craftsmanship: Weber+Weber is the protagonist of a new menswear, the brand swaps formality for comfort. Building on Boiled Wool, an in-house development that only Weber+Weber uses, the WW Travel Blazer in boiled wool has become a product icon for the brand.

"The look is on point, especially as regular ready-to-wear has little demand at the moment. But you can easily wear a Weber+Weber Travel Luxe jacket with jeans as well as to an important job meeting. The comfort inherent in Weber+Weber jackets is elementary," says Matthias Schwarte, who represents the Weber+Weber brand in Germany and Austria with his agency Schwarte in Munich.

Target group

"Weber+Weber addresses connoisseurs. It addresses shops that really know about good menswear." The brand is also aimed at people with personality who express their individuality through their clothing. Their distinction is quiet: better quality, more refined materials, higher comfort.

Stockists / Agency

Weber+Weber is distributed in Germany and Austria by the Schwarte agency, in Switzerland Mirjams Fuchs with the MPH agency is responsible for the high positioning of the brand. In addition, Weber+Weber has an in-house sales manager for the DACH region, Julia Mehnert.

The brand is positioned with 160 outstanding specialist retailers such as Braun Hamburg, Lodenfrey Munich, Gränicher in Lucerne, Sagmeister Der Mann Bregenz or Schnitzler in Münster. Internationally, Trunk Clothiers in London and Zurich are among the top accounts.

Price points (retail)

With core price ranges of 500 to 700 euros for jackets, Weber+Weber is positioned in the sophisticated premium menswear segment.

Valette Studio

Pierre-François Valette launched his brand in Paris in 2020 after training at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Atelier Isabel Marant and specific training at Maison Saint Laurent. The focus on couture work, creative approach, and craftsmanship, he combines with a particular desire for storytelling as well as arts and stage performances.

Valette Studio strives for a fresh reinterpretation of men's wardrobes, respecting a classic construction, softening it to give the silhouettes a contemporary look. Particular attention is paid to the materials used, many of which have a sustainable dimension and contribute stylistically to each of the proposed pieces that appeal to women as much as men. Valette Studio tells complete stories and combines accessories with its ready-to-wear clothing: hand-knitted bags, scarves and hats, belts and ties.

Stockists/Agency

So far only available on the brand's website.

Prices

Pants from 495 euros, shirts from 350 euros, jacket from 975 euros, T-shirt from 169 euros.