Labels to Watch: Clothing brands attending CIFF for the first time
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Fairs
As the upcoming Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) prepares itself for next week, with it set to begin August 9, participating brands are also raring to go for what will be the trade fair’s first edition in which its rival Revolver will be fully integrated. As the event settles into this expansion, it has also begun to wave in a string of new brands which are set to exhibit in the Danish fair for the first time. Ahead of the show, FashionUnited has highlighted some of the clothing brands to look out for during the upcoming CIFF.
ATP Atelier
Accessories label ATP Atelier was founded by two close friends and born out the desire to create shoes and leather goods that coupled “contemporary Scandinavian design and authentic Italian craftsmanship”. The brand’s mission was to tackle the concept of luxury through a sustainable mindset that also looked to make a difference to womens’ lives. Now in its 12th year of existence, ATP Atelier prides itself on its intentional use of thoughtful materials, such as vegetable-tanned Tuscan vacchetta leather, its patent-pending metal-free nappa and its chrome-free Saffiano leather. Each of the materials are used for a number of the brand’s products due to their sustainable qualities that make them more durable, better at decomposing or require less water.
- Target audience: The brand says that its muse is chic, smart and conscious, but not perfect. “She’s blessed, but also stressed,” a press release noted.
- Points of sale: ATP has a presence in Scandinavia, as well as cities like London, Paris, New York, LA, Tokyo and Sydney, where it can be found in high-end boutiques and department stores, such as The Outnet, LuisaViaRoma, Yoox, Fashionette, Vanilia, Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Browns
- Price: While shoes range from 180 to 790 pounds, depending on style, its bags can be found at prices starting from 320 pounds to around 720 pounds. Its accessories, which include scarves, beauty bags and small leather cases, range in prices from 18 pounds to 220 pounds.
- Production: ATP Atelier collections are designed in Stockholm and handcrafted in Tuscany, where the brand says it has a long-standing relationship with suppliers and ‘laboratori’ factories housing up to 20 employees. Its goal is to protect the Italian artisanal tradition of hand making leather goods in a bid to push for both social-sustainability and shorter lead times
Aiayu
Founded in 2005 in the city of Copenhagen, Aiayu has established itself as a nature-led brand that offers both clothing and home accessories simultaneously. Led by creative director Maria Høgh and CEO Maria Glæsel, the brand releases two collections a year, offering pieces that are said to be made from natural materials. In fact, according to Aiayu, around 30 percent of its products are completely undyed, and it places a particular emphasis on the durability and reparability of its items to drive home the importance of the brand’s sustainability values.
- Bestseller: The classic Aiayu Shirt, which comes in a variety of colours and is made from 100 percent Chetna Cotton
- Target audience: The brand’s core consumer is female, however it has offered a men’s capsule in the past and is set to launch a small unisex collection too
- Points of sale: Four own stores – one in Aarhus and three in Copenhagen, one of which is a location for samples, archival styles and the brand’s repair service. Aiayu also works with international wholesalers in Denmark, Germany, the US, the UK, Norway and Sweden, among other regions. It just hired its first international sales manager at the beginning of the year as it looks to grow its international wholesale business
- Price: Retail prices range from 80 euros for a long-sleeve T-shirt to 680 euros for a coat. For accessories, prices are in between 20 euros for socks and 420 euros for a scarf
- Production: The company releases two collections a year and produces, among other locations, in Bolivia, Nepal, India and, more recently, in Italy, Portugal and Turkey
Past Tense
Having just launched this year, Sweden’s Past Tense has set about proposing a new vision of premium Scandinavian menswear through a slow take on clothing. The brand itself was formed by creative director Victor Lindh and business director Adrien Forray, both of whom boast prestigious career paths having previously worked at the likes of Kering, Burberry, Neil Barrett and Axel Arigato. With Past Tense, however, the duo are aiming to offer up less, but better products, while emphasising craftsmanship and longevity at the brand’s core. While its first collection for AW23 centred around introducing the brand’s ethos and took cues from utility and industrial design, its SS24 collection expands on these qualities through distinct silhouettes and elevated fabrics, forming a “well-curated wardrobe that transcends time”.
- Bestseller: As a new brand, information on best sellers are limited, however the company said it was developing a strong product offering in outerwear and knitwear in line with Scandinavian minimalist design values
- Target audience: Past Tense’s target customers are men aged between 25 and 45, who enjoy contemporary fashion and aspire to purchase luxury items. The brand offers a “luxury-level product experience at a contemporary price point”, with the choice of material and level of craftsmanship
- Points of sale: Launching with wholesale in showrooms this SS24 season during autumn, the upcoming collection is the first to be offered to wholesale partners. The company is currently onboarding a handful of contemporary fashion and luxury stores across Europe for SS24 and are in discussions with department stores and online players for the upcoming season
- Production: Material and garments are sourced and hand-crafted in Europe, with 90 percent of the collection descending from Italy and Portugal. Most manufacturing partners are long-time connections of the founders