- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
During global fashion weeks the on-schedule designers mostly dominate the headlines, but brands showing off-grid, in showrooms, via presentations, or just look books, deserve to be critiqued just as much.
With this mind, it was impossible to let the La Perla Pre AW18 collection pass by without an editor's note, because it had people musing, albeit for the wrong reasons.
While Vogue politely said the collection was a "bombshell look rarely seen on the runways of 2017," it was in fact a study in vulgarity, and not of the fashionable kind. If ever there was a collection that ticked all the boxes of fashion faux pas, this is it: Shorter than short body con dresses teamed with clunky platform heels - tick; evening wear in saccharin colours bedazzled to excess - tick; models with thick makeup and high class hooker hair flanked by men in silk tuxedos - check. And these are just three of the garish looks proposed for next season.
And while OTT styling and sexy-to-the-max design do not necessarily negatively impact sales, garish clothes are highly commercial these days, it is odd that a house known for its sensual and beautifully crafted lingerie would churn out such dross for its ready-to-wear.
Lingerie and platforms is no match in tasteful fashion, unless you're a performing tranny, but La Perla's creative director's Julia Haart begs to differ. In an interview with The Cut the petite designer stated: "My whole thing with La Perla is comfort, comfort, comfort. The clothes have to be sexy and beautiful, but they have to be comfortable. I’m a big fan of one-piece dressing. I love jumpsuits, rompers. I design built-in bras in my clothes — no layers, no worrying about whether your bra is going to show, it’s part of your clothes." Team them with tranny heels and it appears one is good to go.
For a brand with ample budgets, working with a seasoned stylist to elevate the collection would not be a capital expense, especially if they can afford Gwyneth Paltrow as guest on its front row.
While there is a market for everything, gauche does not equal sexy, it's just gauche.