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Copenhagen Fashion Week FW23: Four Big Trends

By Jayne Mountford


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Fashion |In Pictures

Image: Helmstedt, Stine Goya, Aeron fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fashion month traditionally begins with the New York shows. But as every industry insider knows, Copenhagen is the real start. Scandinavian designer collections and the street style of their attendees are all indications of future directional trends. Here are the strongest from fall-winter 2023.

Outerwear goes pouff

Fashion meets function with puffer coats which is most likely why we see them season after season in every city. Copenhagen designers followed suit, showing many versions


Image: Helmstedt fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

For look 19, Emilie Helmstedt presented a slimline mid-length puffer coat. It was rendered in ombré combinations of brown, ochre, purple, blue and pink, and shown over a hand painted denim jacket and skirt, socks and sneakers.


Image: Holzweiler fw23/Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

Norwegian label Holzweiler's look 32 consisted of a cropped but oversized navy puffer jacket over a lime green bodysuit with a black nature-driven pattern.

Selam Fessahaye

Image: Selam Fessahaye fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

Swedish-Eritrean designer, Selam Fessahaye, showed a voluminous quilted coat in a traditional camouflage pattern for look 15.

Stine Goya

Image: Stine Goya fw23/ Launchmetrics Spotlight

From Stine Goya, look 43 was a cinch-waist parka in a multi-colored allover print with matching leggings and gloves. Black leg warmers and shiny boots completed the look.

Print this

Designers brought additional interest to basic shapes by using complex all-over prints in colorful combinations.


Image: Ganni fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

At Ganni, for look 24, Ditte Reffstrup showed an all-in-one with puff sleeves and a gathered front. The all-over print was an abstract mix of pink, purple, blue and green.

Lovechild 1979

Image: Lovechild1979 fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

At Lovechild 1979, Mia Kappelgaard showed a blurred flower print ankle length dress in navy, blue and grey with a matching neck scarf for look 19.


Image: Munthe fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

From Copenhagen brand Munthe, look 8 was a longer length jacket over a blouse and pants all in the same print. The hand painted design was colored in a variety of green shades and ivory.

Stine Goya

Image: Stine Goya fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

For look 8, Stine Goya showed a pants suit with a broad shouldered 3 button jacket in a jacquard fabric in blue and black with areas of metallic gold and silver.

Knit wit

Scandinavian designers are known for their expertise with knitwear. Many of the fw23 had innovative looks.

Henrik Vibskov

Image: Henrik Vibskov fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

From Henrik Vibskov, look 37 was a bright green floor length dress in a variation of a popcorn knit with a mock turtleneck and a ribbed hem.

TG Botanical

Image: TG Botanical fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

From Ukrainian designer Tatyana Chumak, a rib-knit sweater with a deconstructed overlay teamed to popcorn knit leggings was shown for look 20.

A. Roege Hove

Image: A. Roege Hove fw23/ Launchmetrics Spotlight

Amalie Røge Hove is a conceptual knitwear designer. Look 37 was a rib knit cutaway top with an overlay. This was matched to black rib knit pants. Both were made of a cotton/nylon mix.


Image: Aeron fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

Budapestian Eszter Áron showed several knit ensembles, including a mock turtleneck and matching flared leggings in a patterned rib knit.

Over and under

Most of the Copenhagen designers showed tailored looks. Layered styles looked the freshest.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan

Image: Mark Kenly Domino Tan fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

From creative director, Caroline Engelgaar, look 17 was a split hem dress and matching cropped jacket in heathered brown/grey had a half apron layered from the waist.

Rabens Saloner

Image: Rabens Saloner fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW
From Birgitte Raben, look 1 was a half-jacket layered over a tunic top and wide legged pants, all in a matching beige crépe fabric. Faux fur trapper cap and duffle completed the outfit.

The Garment

Image: The Garment fw23/ Courtesy James Cochrane for CFW

From Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen, look 21 consisted of a double layered grey sweater and a herringbone split front skirt over grey gabardine pants. An ivory neck scarf added a pop of contrast color.


Image: Holzweiler fw23/ Launchmetrics Spotlight

For look 35, Maria Skappel Holzweiler showed a neutral colored two piece plaid suit with a mini kilt layered over the pants. A black cropped top underneath completed the ensemble.

Copenhagen Fashion Week