Gender Swap at Milan Fashion Week

Men’s fashion week in Milan is doubling as a women’s resort fashion week, with many brands choosing to show both collections on its catwalk.

Whereas in the past designers would mix a few women’s looks within the context of their men’s presentation, some, like at Prada, chose to put equal focus on both collections this season. And why not? The sales calendar for men’s ready-to-wear overlaps with the sales of the women’s pre-spring or resort collections. As the pre-collections generally get more sales time in store in comparison to the mainlines, it makes sense to allot them greater visibility during catwalk season, instead of just being available to view in showrooms.

At Prada there were post pop and industrial patterns that came in the form of prints featuring rabbits, rockets, cars, arrows and even eyes, as seen on sweaters, dresses and sportswear. The prints, while simple and juvenile at first glance, reveal our logo and brand obsessed culture, with Prada commenting we live in a world where modesty no longer exists. Of course everyone will recognise the bunny sweaters next season, but it’s the subversive element that makes it interesting.

Blurred lines between mens and womenswear

At Gucci there was a continuum of blurred lines between its mens and womenswear, which featured embellishment, pussy-bow blouses and silky pyjama suits. It is precisely this fluidity of what would be traditionally considered womenswear that makes Gucci so exciting just now. Bohemian, gender-fluid, languid and romantic sums up the new season. “My idea of masculinity is beauty,” designer Alessandro Michele said after the show. “If you want to be beauty you can be beauty how you want; it doesn’t mean that you are not a man or woman.” These are clothes that give you “the freedom to choose who you are.”

The beret made a return for both men and women at Emporio Armani’s spring 16 collection. Inspired by "East and West blend without exoticism or ethnic nostalgia” there was the usual deconstructed tailoring, with soft double-breasted and boxy jackets worn loosely over roomier trousers for both sexes.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua played with proportion at No. 21, and this season saw layering replace his graphic focus, as forms got bigger and softer and textures more tactile. Gigantic bombers and cropped overalls were key saleable pieces, and the women in the show could have easily been sporting menswear, with a cropped utility jacket worn over a slouchy pant, it was sufficiently tomboyish and unisex.

Images: Prada, Gucci, Emporio Armani, No. 21