London Fashion Week Day 4
Feb 24, 2015
Roksanda on Monday showed a collection of stylised psychedelics. Inspired by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s cult 1972 film The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant, the Serbian designer said backstage: "The whole mood of the movie really inspired me, so I tried to portray this emotion." What we saw on the catwalk were rich jacquards, laser-cut leathers and hand-embroidered latticed plastic leaves, all proposed in the brightest of purples, pinks and orange.
Out of all London Fashion Week shows, the most stellar front row is always at Burberry Prorsum, which saw Kate Moss, Sam Smith, Cara Delevingne, Jourdan Dunn and a very late arrival of Naomi Campbell. AW15 will go down as one of Christopher Bailey's more bohemian collections, enhanced by a live acoustic performance from Clare Maguire, who wrote an original composition exclusively for the show entitled “Give Me.” This season’s free-spirited ‘Patchwork, patterns & prints’ collection resonated a sense of nostalgia. The brand’s signature trenches were given a touch of the flower-power generation, shown this time emblazoned with paisley and vintage floral prints inspired by Durham quilts. Animal and camouflage printed lace featured on folk-style dresses, while suede thigh-high boots were patterned with retro cut-out patches and fringe detailing brought Stevie Nicks to mind.
Canadian-born Erdem Moralioglu this season worked with artist Robin Brown to produce a set for his AW15 collection. ‘I was fascinated to create a character through environment as much as through clothes' the designer said backstage. Walking through the house of an art collector filled with books, stacks of papers and plenty of art, models wore dresses and tailored coats in rich metallic brocades, upholstery fabrics and romantic coloured lace. Without becoming too Victoriana, the fabrics were modernised with raw and frayed edges and silhouettes were shorter, easier and more fluid than in previous seasons. Key pieces include needle-punched camel coats and patchwork mini dresses.
Peter Pilotto found themselves fascinated with board games this season. Designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto sent out the first model wearing a cream military coat decorated with winding tufts of pink fur, proving that there is fun in rules and precision. Snakes and Ladders, Connect Four and Ludo were three board games that inspired the designers' prints: “We started with the layout and the dynamics of board games with all their different elements, from the design of the circuit, to the equipment like dice and tokens which are so great to place on clothes,” explained Pilotto post-show.
Giles has never shied away from a little theatre, and this season it was the 17th century Chelsea Physic Garden where he imagined his muse could be taking a stroll. Ruffs, capes, frock coats and printed duchesse satin were just some of the references of a time that passed. But if the clothes felt grand and reverential, there was plenty to covet for today's woman, too. Pristine ruffled white shirts; a pencil dress in a gothic jacquard; or a flared wool coat with lacing detailing. The exquisite tailoring shone through, no matter which century Giles felt aligned to.