Perhaps as an antidote to two years of sweats and tee shirts, European menswear designers suggested an upgrade to indoor-outdoor dressing, showing pajama-esque silhouettes, including billowy pants and matching print tops with shorts. Here are the ten ‘best in show’.
Amiri – Paris
Mike Amiri’s past designs are rooted in jeanswear but his SS23 collection was expanded to include a variety of styles. There were several matching top and bottom combinations. Look 9 was composed of a striped shirt tucked into banded shorts, both with the Amiri logo, shown under a sleek blue overcoat.
Bianca Saunders – Paris
The British-Jamaican designer showed several fluid looking designs, including several pairs of matching sets in a silky finish fabric. Look 12 was composed of a brown top with an asymmetric draped front over brown pants.
Carlota Barrera – London
A trip to Cuba in December 2021 was the starting point for Spanish-born designer Carlota Barrera’s spring/ summer 2023 collection. This included references to the traditional ‘guayabera’ shirt. Look 10 was a pajama-inspired long sleeved blue and white striped shirt and matching Bermuda shorts, shown with socks and loafers.
Dhruv Kapoor – Milan
Kapoor made history as the first Indian designer to show during Milan’s men’s fashion week. Look 14 was composed of an oversized blue pinstripe shirt with a drawstring waist and matching thigh length shorts. Both were embellished with decals.
Dries van Noten – Paris
Dries Van Noten said he’d been researching male subcultures for inspiration for SS23. “Garage scene grifters, cowboys, sleepy dreamers,” he said. Hence some billowy pajama type styles. For look 11, the designer showed full striped pants with an extra wide elastic waistband, a white tank top and black zip front jacket.
Family First – Milan
For this season the brand presented a collection themed “I Love Milano”, a fusion of Italian sartorial know-how with contemporary American style. There were several prints alluding to the Sicilian summer. For example, Look 11 was a cream silk shirt and pants, both embellished with a placed print of citrus fruit.
Federico Cina – Milan
For the SS23 collection, Federico Cina’s design was inspired by a trip to his Italian home town, and a color story influenced by the nearby Cervia salt pans. Look 32 included a loose fit shirt in blue, yellow, white and brown stripes contrasted with pants in white, beige and blue.
Emporio Armani – Milan
Returning to the runway for the first time in a few seasons, the SS23 collection was filled with many of Armani’s traditional design codes, like relaxed, layered suiting, while also experimenting with fresh prints and colors. Look 91 showed a relaxed drawstring-waist linen pant in an ivory, green and rust wide stripe pant.
In amongst the logo heavy sweats, ‘gorpcore’ styles and relaxed suiting, Matthew Williams showed a couple of pajama-inspired shirt and shorts combinations. For look 38 he showed double layered pinstriped shirts and shorts with the Givenchy logo in a tiny all-over print; a matching cap and gloves completed the look.
Rhude – Paris
With a lean towards luxury, Rhuigi Villaseñor elevated his streetwear vision in a collection entitled ‘New Money.’ The runway show stayed true to its West Coast roots, with a variety of relaxed silhouettes. Look 30 consisted of black and burgundy striped pajamas with white piping and a contrasting striped robe.