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MFW SS22: Marni unveils genderfluid ready-to-wear collection on Milan runway

By Rachel Douglass

Oct 1, 2021

Fashion

Image: Marni

Luxury fashion house Marni presented its ready-to-wear collection, with multiple references to the almost two-year-long pandemic, through a presentation that merged the audience and performers in a rather grand spectacle.

Clothing aimed to connect wearers through genderless styles and consistent techniques that were evident throughout the wide range of oversized blazers, huge cardigans, baggy hoodies, tank tops, wrap skirts and pyjamas. Stripes, both vertical and horizontal, and floral patterns were the defining elements of the collection, either combined for a striking effect or dynamically printed through bold pieces.

Image: Marni

Cut out flower shapes were a notable feature of some looks, layered over one another in contrasting colour schemes. The technique was implemented into matching co-ords, skirts and dresses, while other pieces stuck to a more minimalistic daisy print.

Performers additionally took to the stage, reciting poems and songs while donning looks from the latest collection. One poet sported the daisy print on pants that clashed with a more subdued grey and black blazer. A singer, who joined the models on stage towards the closing, was styled in a harness-like beaded top, with flower shapes covering their chest and an intriguing cut-out flower skirt, keeping in theme with the quirky, graphic motifs that were a regular component of the line.

Image: Marni
Image: Marni

The cast of the runway was similarly diverse in consideration of body type, ethnicity and gender fluidity, a distinct contrast to that of other designers presenting during the Milan event.

Marni’s presentation was just as much about the audience as it was the models on the runway. Guests at the show were kitted out in fitted upcycled cotton pieces featuring hand-painted stripes, while seated in a spiral arrangement. The audience involvement referenced the show’s underlying idea that clothing should be made for people, one-on-one.

Creative director Francesco Risso regularly stated throughout the pandemic that the fashion industry has had to adapt to a significant change in lifestyle. This new presentation breaks the barriers of observer and performer, highlighting Risso’s idea of creating a collection “about the act of getting dressed to be together”, a further reference to the reestablishment of in-person meetings.

Image: Marni
Image: Marni
Image: Marni
Image: Marni
Image: Marni