Milan Fashion Week: Gucci remains in 70s mode

London - A catwalk show presented by a luxury fashion house steeped in heritage is more often than not a proposition to a way of dressing. It is not advisable to take each look as literal. At Gucci, with its layers of styling tinged with 70s references and Woodstock, it is about dissecting these layers, to find pieces to elevate our wardrobes and for consumers to make them their own.

Because in menswear, brocade suiting, embroidered silk pyjamas, a pussy-bow shirt and lustrous gold footwear, remains commercially tricky. Neither the average man on the street nor those dipping their toe into the fashion pool, would look very convincing in head-to-toe catwalk Gucci.

“An assemblage of fragments,” underpinned the philosophical statement that constitute Gucci's show notes each season, or as Creative Director Alessandro Michele stated backstage, “The ’70s is the most powerful image, for me, for the brand. The brand has a soul—and its soul is really that kind of ’70s moment.”

Gucci menswear: lurex knits, snakeskin suits, pearl heeled shoes

That 70s vibe came out in longside lurex knits, snakeskin suits, heels embedded with pearls, and sunglasses encrusted with crystal. An overload of decoration that appears to be gender neutral on the catwalk.

If the Gucci of today is meant to be genderless, seasonless, mixing casual with haute fashion than this collection is too much and never enough. The fur-trimmed slippers, pussy-bow blouse, velvet robes and luxe tracksuits have become staples and Michele sought not to re-invent but to add to what is working now.

There are always murmurs post show that what is presented has been seen before. Almost a year to the day when Michele was installed as creative head of the brand, this is his third menswear show. The Gucci-effect has been widely copied and the geek-chic look remains a high street favourite.

With many of the buyers and press dressed in full Gucci mode, it looks as if Michele's sensibility is here to stay. Deconstructing the looks, there were plenty of Gucci basics that are covetable, such as block-coloured tailoring in blues, greens and yellows, or a pair of cropped blue bootcut trousers worn with a white T-shirt. Or a silk bomber with an embroidered dragon print, if you're feeling adventurous.

Images:Gucci AW16