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Oskar Metsavaht: Osklen, from Brazil to the world

By Cynthia Ijelman

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Fashion |INTERVIEW

Oskar Metsavaht, creator of the Osklen brand spoke exclusively with FashionUnited during the first edition of Mercedes Benz Fashion Talk, in Buenos Aires.

Osklen is recognised as the leading Brazilian international luxury brand. It is present in some of the world's major cities like New York, Rome, Tokyo, Milan, Buenos Aires and others.

In addition to being one of the major fashion designers in Brazil, Metsavaht is also Creative Director of his brand. He is an interdisciplinary artist focused on audio-visual techniques, art and photography. He also works for environmental causes and is Goodwill Ambassador of UNESCO.

FashionUnited: São Paulo Fashion Week's 20th anniversary was celebrated this year in the midst of Brazil's current complex economic situation. What was it like for you?

Metsavaht: Over the past 20 years, the São Paulo Fashion Week was the debut for great original creators, important designers and brands. I have been part of this group right from the start and we have developed in terms of authorship, quality and culture. I think that Brazil is constantly changing with regard to fashion. I think the world crisis, which was also experienced in Argentina and Brazil, affected us a lot. There was a time when the industry entirely collapsed in Argentina and dropped to half its size in Brazil.

The onslaught of foreign brands caused very disloyal competition with our Brazilian companies. Exchange rates and promotion of large shopping centres were the cause of very disloyal competition. In addition to my optimistic opinion of the work done over these past 20 years, I am also pessimistic when I think that many of our brands have done a very good job but they might disappear if they aren't consistent enough. I also think that unoriginal brands won't survive. South American design has been copied quite a lot by foreign firms. There was a time of high market demand but the idea prevails that creation means copying foreign products. This is anti-ethical, illegal and immoral.

Do you think that international fast fashion brands entering the Brazilian market have affected local fashion?

International fashion brands haven't made too much of an impact in Brazil as yet. They are currently competing directly with medium brands that copy foreign products. It hasn't had too much of an impact on brands like C&A, Renner and Riachuelo and others. Firms that are original, have quality and a higher market position will surely have to compete with these international luxury fashion brands. But those that imitate them will end up disappearing.

Osklen was recognised as the leading Brazilian international luxury brand. How has the public outside the country reacted?

They have always reacted very well. Many Hollywood artists choose Osklen. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour supports us. There are people who could choose any international luxury brand and they use ours so I am very pleased. Osklen is now part of a very small market niche but is present in many wardrobes.

What are Osklen's most representative items?

My dresses, bags and swimsuits. These are items that are characteristic of our style.

You are present all over the world and are focusing on the US market. What is your next venture?

I have two stores at the moment in the US, one in New York and another in Miami. They have been used as a test to see whether Osklen liked the local market. I now have Alpargatas, owners of Hawaiian footwear, as a partner. We have been working on and studying Osklen's global position and decided to invest in one place. We choose the American market that is starting to make a comeback. We contacted the Chanel accessories Marketing Director and hired her. She saw my bags and said that there was a great chance that they would all be eligible for sale in luxury stores and brand positioning.

In the next few days, we will be opening a new office and showroom in New York. Instead of putting on a simple fashion show in the next Fashion Week, I'm also going to display photos and descriptions of trends. The idea is for people to come and get to know a bit more about my style. One of the projects entails opening the largest most representative store in New York, two in Los Angeles and then in other cities. The idea is to have ten points of sale in the country in the next five years.

Fotos: Lynda Churilla


Oskar Metsavaht
Osklen