PFW SS24 key items: tailored separates, flirty skirts and more
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Fashion
Fashion Week in Paris was held between September 26 and October 3, 2023 with around 140 brands showing their collections for the spring/summer 2024 season. When it came to essential items for store buyers to review, it was a case of ‘minimalism versus maximalism’ so varied were the choices. Here are five of the most important silhouettes.
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1) The oversized jacket
The popularity with consumers of the ‘quiet luxury’ trend was clear for all to see this season. Tailored separates took center stage in all of the major fashion cities, none more prevalent in Paris than the oversized suit jacket.
Carven: designer, Louise Trotter
Look 6: an oversized lightweight wool one-button jacket with broad shoulders over a matching top, and a sheer below-the-knee skirt. Accessories included a red pendant on a leather thong and nude blunt toe slippers.
Dries Van Noten
Look 14: an oversized double-breasted tan jacket with four patch pockets over matching Bermuda shorts, accessorized with patterned socks, houndstooth lace-up shoes with a curved heel.
Gauchere: designer, Marie-Christine Statz
Look 1: a black oversized thigh-length blazer over a nude and white double turtle-neck top and black leather mini-skirt with black accessories.
Givenchy: designer, Matthew M. Williams
Look 13: an oversized double-breasted pastel jacket over a cream blouse and long brown satin skirt. A cream clutch, yellow hose and shoes completed the look.
Stella McCartney
Look 44: a pale blue oversized shawl collared one button jacket with matching overlong pants, lilac lace-up flats and a small diamante covered mini bag with a long fringe at Stella McCartney .
2) The Trench Coat
The prevalence of classic looking trench coats in Paris was another example of how the ‘quiet luxury trend’ has captured the imagination of the ready-to-wear consumer. Mostly they were rendered in the same waterproofed cotton gabardine originally developed by Thomas Burberry.Maison Margiela: designer, John Galliano
Look 8: a taupe colored trench coat with a one-button closure and a self-belt shown over a white blouse with print cuffs.
Saint Laurent: designer, Anthony Vaccarello
Look 43: a double-breasted khaki trench coat with a standup collar featuring a belt and buckle, a storm flap, epaulets and tortoiseshell buttons. It was shown over a black suit and brown belt.
Dries van Noten
Look 7: a floor-length double-breasted khaki trench coat with a storm flap and tortoiseshell buttons, shown over a striped shirt and patterned leotard. Accessories included socks with a geometric pattern and suede athletic shoes.
Balenciaga: designer, Demna
Look 3: a classically designed trench coat with a rounded collar and storm flaps, in two shades of light beige. A black handbag with a keychain made up of padlocks, black hose and pumps completed the look.
Christian Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri
Look 32: a double-breasted trench coat with a back belt, a storm flap, epaulets, belted cuffs and an embroidered version of the Dior bee. It was shown with a tan colored handbag and strappy black flats with pearl closures.
3) The flirty skirt
Short, layered and ruffled skirts reminiscent of the ‘80’s ‘ra ra’ skirt, styled in a variety of different ways, showed up on several runways.
Vaquera, designers, Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee
Look 65: a black two layered ruffled mini skirt with a vee panel front teamed with a cropped bomber jacket in olive khaki and matching bra top. Accessories included a white beret and slippers.
Miu Miu, designer, Miuccia Prada
Look 4: a micro-mini skirt of white multi-layers with a blue stretch waistband and white lace-up tie. The rest of the outfit consisted of a blue check shirt, navy sweater and crested blazer. Accessories included aviator glasses and thong sandals.
Loewe, designer, Jonathan Anderson
Look 20: a black layered mini skirt with a long, ruffled train and a brown plaid shirt under a beige vee neck sweater. Accessories included a black snakeskin hobo bag, and black thong platform sandals.
Az Factory: designers, Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin
Look 5: a short, layered skirt with a flat daisy print on a pink background and a matching button-down shirt with white cuffs. Black marabou trimmed slippers completed the look.
Balmain, designer, Oliver Rousteing
Look 12: a pink multi-pleated two layered short skirt under a bright green double-breasted blazer with gold buttons, mismatched earrings and blue patent blunt toe slippers.
4) The bra top and skirt combination
A bra top matched to a skirt is another favorite from the 1980s. Fabrics ranged from chiffon and silk to leather and lace.
Elie Saab
Look 37: a coral-colored lace bra over a green turquoise one and a matching double layered lace ankle-length skirt with red ankle strap platform sandals and a woven straw handheld bag.
Hermès: designer, Nadège Vanhee
Look 23: a brown ribbed bralette with trim and a matching skirt with detachable waistband. Accessories included large hoop earrings, brown hobo bag and brown sandals.
Ottolinger: designers, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient
Look 40: a black bandeau top and matching briefs under a deconstructed white lace skirt with black and white ribbon ties and silver sparkling flip flops.
Rick Owens
Look 11: a narrow black bralette and high-waisted black leather skirt, tight-fitting to the knee and then with a flare.
Giambattista Valli
Look 41: a white bra with diamante straps and body-jewelry to match with a sheer heavily embroidered skirt. Embellished silver sandals completed the look.
5) The balloon sleeves
Adding balloon sleeves to a variety of different silhouettes was an off-shoot of the maximalist trend.
CFCL: designer, Yusuke Takahashi
Look 5: a black below-the-knee dress in a variegated rib-knit with balloon sleeves over a silver lurex knit, a black bucket hat and black strappy sandals.
Chloé: designer, Gabriela Hearst
Look 23: a mid-length silver leather fitted dress with a deep vee front and big balloon sleeves. Accessories included a large silver pendant and white strappy sandals.
Cecilie Bahn
Look 19: a short dress in a large sized pink and white gingham check with a balloon hem, ruffled embellishments and balloon sleeves. Black socks and flats finished the look.
Louis Vuitton: designer, Nicolas Ghesquière
Look 14 : a satin finish plaid blouse with a rolled neck, balloon sleeves and a reworked logo, over straight jeans, an oversized belt and black bag.
Sacai: designer, Chitose Abe
Look 25: a thick knit sweater in a green, brown and blue fair-isle pattern with balloon sleeves over a sheer knee-length skirt, sheer socks and ankle boots.