The megatrends of digitalisation and customisation are posing major challenges for the fashion industry. But at the same time, they also hold enormous potential – in terms of sustainability, for example, and the return of production to Europe. In its Showcase on the upper floor, the upcoming edition of Neonyt (2-4 July, Kraftwerk Berlin) is demonstrating new approaches to fashion production and presenting two micro-factories on an area of more than 160 m².
“Our technology will change the way that printed clothing is made,” says a convinced Traian Luca, CEO of Gemini CAD Systems. Specialised in cutting room processes and computer-aided designs, the Romanian company develops technologies for the processing of flexible materials like textiles or leather. At Neonyt in Berlin, the globally operating technology provider will be showing what a flexible production process can look like today: with the “Pixel to Product” micro-factory. On an area of 80 m² on the upper floor of Kraftwerk, individually digitally printable dresses, blouses and swimwear will be manufactured in front of the visitors’ eyes. They will be given an insight into all steps of the process such as product development and design, individual adjustments to size, style and patterns, as well as printing and laser cutting, sewing and finishing.
Favourite pieces rather than throwaway items
The flexibility of a digitally connected and automated production process offers benefits for both customers and the environment: according to Gemini, ink, fabric and sublimation papier consumption can each be reduced by up to 40 percent. The CO2 footprint can also be significantly minimised as companies can return their production to European countries and fuel and exhaust gases can be reduced thanks to shorter delivery routes. Plus, custom-made, favourite pieces are much less likely to be returned. The manufacturer profits in two ways: they only have to produce items that have been paid for in advance and can save on (costly) warehousing and dead stock.
“The advancements of digitalisation are connecting the textile threads in a completely new way,” says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President of Textiles and Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt. “The industry is currently finding itself in a transition phase, as vividly shown by the Neonyt Showcase with the two micro-factories.” And the whole customisation trend is becoming increasingly important: more and more custom-designed pieces are finding their way into consumers’ wardrobes. However, this mass personalisation has come at a time when the textile and clothing industry is still very much analogue: the system, which is designed for “fast fashion” with inflexible production processes and complex supply chains, is lacking the necessary flexibility for individualised mass production. The Neonyt Showcase is providing solutions to this problem too.
Glocalisation thanks to digitalisation
Glocalisation, a portmanteau of the terms globalisation and localisation, plays an important role for Neonyt exhibitor Strima. The Polish company is also taking part in the Neonyt Showcase. On an area of 80 m² – also in the form of a micro-factory – it will be presenting a complete solution for fashion, upholstery and leather ateliers called “Texi”, a fully equipped fashion atelier with sewing machines, cutting and ironing tools and labelling and sewing accessories. It should enable designers to carry out the production in the place where they live.
“We developed Texi as a response to the increasing customer requests for energy-saving, low-noise and user-friendly machines,” says Ela Dzierzgwa, Head of Purchasing at Strima. According to Dzierzgwa, keeping the production of local brands in Europe, or bringing it back from Asia, is having a positive effect on global energy savings and reduces air pollution, because the distance between the place of production and the consumer is shortened.
Forward-thinkers and pioneers in material innovations
As sustainable clothing doesn’t begin with the product, but with the machines, manufacturing processes and innovative materials, Neonyt covers all aspects of the entire supply chain – from the preliminary design phase to the finished product. As far as innovative end products are concerned, this July’s Neonyt is also impressing with exciting, high-tech material innovations that are being used, above all, in the functional segment, in outdoor and sportswear.
“In order to keep the transport distances as short as possible, all our products are 100 percent made in Europe. And we only use materials that aren’t on our Restricted Substances List,” says Timo Perschke, founder and managing director of Pyua. The company from Kiel is presenting highly functional outdoor clothing for ladies and men, as well as urban and sportswear products. And Bleed, Ecoalf and LangerChen will also be showcasing their new outdoor collections featuring high-quality material innovations.
NEONYT Hub 2-4 July 2019
Fashionsustain 2-3 July 2019
Fashion Show 2 July 2019, 10:00 am