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Esmod Munich closes - with it a chapter of German fashion

By FashionUnited

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The final class of graduates at Esmod Munich fashion school presented their collections last week at Munich's Muffathalle. With the closing of the school, which was introduced in Germany in 1989 by Esmod Germany founders Dorothea Beißer and Silvia Kadolsky, a chapter in German fashion history comes to an end.

A school with history

The original school, 'École supérieure des arts et techniques de la mode' was founded in 1841 in Paris. In the second half of the 20th Century, franchises of the Esmod-system opened around the world, from Jakarta to Tokyo, Moscow to Oslo. With roots in Paris, the two women decided it was also time for a German branch. This was not without its risks. Who would spend this amount of money to study fashion in Germany, many asked. Against the odds, however, the first press conference created huge media response. The at the time so popular fashion quarterly TV-Show 'Bienvenue im Kleidermarkt' announced the opening with a phrase along the lines of 'a new fashion star is rising in Munich' as Dorothea Beißer remembers. The first class already attracted 58 students from Germany, Austria and other European countries, eager to learn about the fashion business.

Five years later, in 1994, the two businesswomen again made a market-savvy decision. Co-founder Silvia Kadolsky went to Berlin, where the second German franchise was opened. Another coup: Their first show, which took place just a few years after the fall of the wall, was held at the Russian embassy. Again, it was unsure whether the up-and-coming city would attract enough young people willing to study fashion, but the model was a success. So much so, that now, 20 years later, the Berlin school, along with the hype around the German capital, drew enrolment from its sister-school in Munich. Munich enrolment suffered particularly, because the Berlin subsidiary became a university and was able to grant Bachelor and Master titles. Eventually, closing the school in the Bavarian capital was the economically responsible thing to do.

The last fashion show

The 27 graduates to be awarded their dual diplomas in the field of 'Modelisme', french for pattern making, and 'Stylisme', design, presented their collections last Friday. Aside from a jury composed of press and industry representatives such as blogger Jean-Claude Mpassy, model Papis Loveday, Florian Moser, Head of Design Casual Men at German brand René Lezard, costume designer Stefanie Hamann, fashion designer Sophie Greiner and Jolie-magazine editor Detlev Feistel, the show was also attended by many former graduates bidding their farewells to their alma mater.

Aside from Dorothea Beißer, who was presented with a lifetime achievement award by Esmod international president Saturo Nino, awards were given to Lena Schleicher for best womenswear design, Marie-Theres Baier for best women’s tailoring, Alina Peuker for best menswear design and Luca Lina Wahler for best men’s tailoring. Elena Trukhina received the Aguille D'Or, a special prize given for consistency throughout the course of study and Stephanie Winterhalter was awarded the Prix Créateur, the highest honor.

Famous names among the graduates

The Munich staple fashion school counts some important names among its graduates. Most noteworthy: Damir Doma who founded his eponymous label in Paris and now shows in Milan, Dirk Schönberger, now Creative Director at sportswear giant Adidas, and the creatives behind New York-based label Threeasfour. Other former Esmod Munich students turned designers include Marcel Ostertag, Eva Poleschinski, Dimitri and Lola Paltinger. Esmod Berlin International University of Art for Fashion continues its operation.

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