Made in Europe: banking on quality and craftsmanship

In our recent series on local garment production in six European countries - Spain, the UK, The Netherlands, Germany, Italy and France – FashionUnited shed light on the production possibilities within our own backyard. We posed the question if the fashion sector still has the knowledge

and technological possibilities for local production and if we can still make jeans, produce bags and purses and knit sweaters in Europe. The answer to these questions is a clear ‘yes, but…’, which we’ll explain in this summary.

Local production has many advantages: the proximity to key markets, for example, and the resulting savings through lower transportation, shipping and handling costs. The transparency in terms of place of origin of the product also increases, coupled with higher quality due to local know-how. This in turn increases the product’s life span and brand value. In addition, emphasis on environmentally friendly products and production processes (often using renewable resources), the creation of jobs at home and producing under healthy and safe conditions speak for locally produced goods and increase national pride while at the same time producing a strong export product.

Creating strong export products at home

No wonder then that in all six countries, there is a strong trend toward locally produced goods. Spain for example boasts 135,000 textile workers who produce anything from children’s clothing, bathing suits, handbags and footwear. In the UK, 13 leather companies and 30 tanneries produce leather goods that bank on tradition, craftsmanship and quality.

As a jeans-obsessed nation, The Netherlands have figured out a way to produce luxury jeans at home, albeit on a small scale. In Germany, there are almost 28,000 garment workers who focus on niche markets like quality outdoor products, innerwear, sportswear, casual fashion, protective clothing and workwear.

Italy, known over the world for craftsmanship, tradition and specialised knowledge, prides itself on the production of luxury shoes in more than 300 small and medium-sized businesses. Last but not least, more than 90,000 people work in the clothing sector in France, manufacturing clothes for luxury brands, shoes and designer fashion.

However, high labour and material costs and a lack of space for large-scale machinery and manufacturing units keep the home production at a small scale. Add to that an emphasis on price and discounts of European consumers and this fact will not change any time soon. As one writer points out: “Concerns regarding the origin of a product are still considered to be a matter of luxury, reserved for the wealthy.”

At the same time, more and more consumers do ask about the origin of the shirt they are wearing or exhibit national pride by buying local. Regional initiatives tap into this demand and list companies that make an effort to produce at home, be it clothes, shoes, accessories or other products, thus making it easy for consumers to support them by buying their products.

Outside of Europe, consumers have long understood that craftsmanship has its price but will produce products that last longer. Instead of buying three pairs of shoes at a discount that may fall apart after a few months, they invest in one good pair at a premium that may last for many years. Quality, genuine materials and fine craftsmanship are ingredients valued the world over and something consumers are willing to pay a premium for. “Made in Europe” has thus become a great export product.

EU regulations need to make sure that it is a genuine “Made in…” product that reflects its production origin accurately, and efforts are underway to come up with a binding standard soon. Other recommendations for European garment manufacturers would be to keep developing their niche and to invest in education, especially about the opportunities that homegrown products pose, for example by introducing a focus of locally produced products in the current fashion curriculum.

At the same time, big global players like Inditex and H&M also need to step up their efforts to produce locally. While it is neither desirable nor possible to produce predominantly in one’s own backyard, achieving a better balance between local and outsourced goods seems like a good idea.