- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - LVHM has revealed its shortlist for its 2018 Prize for Young Fashion Designers and with half of the nominated designers competing for the 300,000 euro cash prize focusing on gender-neutral fashion it seems as gender will play less of a role in the future of fashion.
From the list of 20 semifinalists for the fifth edition of the annual LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, six brands produce gender-neutral fashion, two design for both men and women while eight are women’s wear designers and four are men’s wear designers. However, half of the brands nominated, design clothing which is genderless and can be worn by men and women.
“Gender-neutral fashion, already present in former editions, has gained considerable ground, thus proving that the Prize echoes the recent evolutions in fashion. Among the 20 brands selected, 6 are headed by design duos,” said Delphine Arnault, founder of the Prize and leading talent at LVMH, the parent company of leading luxury brands such as Dior, Fendi and Louis Vuitton in a statement.
LVMH reveals shortlist for 2018 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers
Among the gender-neutral semi-finalists for the 2018 competition are Faustine Steinmetz, a Paris designer based in London; Matthew Adams Dolan, based in New York; GmbH, the Berlin-based design collective led by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby; Youchan Chung’s The-Sirius, based in Paris; Masayuki Ino’s Doublet, based in Japan and Ludovic de Saint Sernin from Paris.
Other designers shortlisted for the prize who are known for their non-binary gender design also include Charles Jeffrey, with Charles Jeffrey Loverboy which encompasses both a brand and a nightclub and Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus, who showed their autumn collection for Eckhaus Latta label at New York Fashion Week. Steinmetz was previously a finalist in the second cycle of the Prize, while both GmbH and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy were shortlisted for the Prize last year.
“For the 2018 edition, we have selected 20 young designers from China, France, Germany, Japan, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, South Korea, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, the United States and Vietnam,” added Arnault.” For many upcoming designers, the benefits of participating in such a Prize can already been seen in the first round of the competition - all 20 shortlisted designers will show their collections at LVHM headquarters on March 1 and 2 during Paris Fashion Week, where they will meet with 48 experts who will select eight finalists.
Last year, GmbH designers met with Adrian Joffe at the showroom, who went on to stock their label in his concept store Dover Street Market. “The platform itself is just amazing. I mean, that’s already like a prize in itself, to have all these people talking to you. I definitely feel like it’s valuable and important for young brands like us, especially when you’re from Berlin and you don’t live in Paris, or you’re not within the scene,” said Isik to WWD.
Among the other designers making up the shortlist are British men’s wear brand A-Cold-Wall, designed by Samuel Ross; London-based designer Marta Jakubowski; Akikoaoki, a Japanese women’s wear brand from Akiko Aoki; Edda, a Norwegian women’s wear label designed by Edda Gimnes; Kwaidan Editions, a London-based women’s wear brand by Léa Dickely and Hung La; Magda Butrym, a Polish women’s wear designer; NIHL, a New York-based men’s wear label by Neil Grotzinger, Ottolinger, a Berlin-based women’s wear brand designed by Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient; Botter, designed by Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh; Ernest W. Baker by and Reid Baker and Ines Amorim’s; ROKH, a London-based label by South Korean designer Rok Hwang, and Snow Xue Gao, a women’s wear label by Chinese designer Snow Gao.
Designers were asked to address an extra criteria section in sustainability this year as well, as the Prize aims to champion creative and ethical brands. “The designs of the 20 semi-finalists reflect the current trends in fashion, where streetwear is progressing and continues to shape designs that challenge traditional categories, borrowing from menswear and womenswear. With this Prize, LVMH confirms its ongoing commitment to supporting young fashion designers and places the spotlight on tomorrow’s talents,” added Arnault.
The finalists will come together in June at Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris and meet with a jury which include the likes of Karl Lagerfeld; Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière; Marc Jacobs; Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri; Loewe artistic director Jonathan Anderson; Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller; Haider Ackermann of Berluti, and Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, among others before the winner is s elected.
Photo: LVMH Prize 2018
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - Luxury conglomerate Kering and London College of Fashion, UAL (LCF) have teamed up to create the world’s first open-access digital course in sustainable luxury fashion. Named ‘Fashion & Sustainability: Understanding Luxury Fashion in a Changing World’, the new course was announced during an event hosted by the British Fashion Council during London Fashion Week.
The new course was developed to strengthen sustainability in education within the luxury and fashion industry in order to drive the wider adoption of more sustainable practices. Co-developed by LCF academics and Kering sustainability experts, the course is built on six key modules including: Why Sustainability Matters in Fashion, Contextualising Sustainability for a Changing World, Sustainable Sourcing for Luxury Fashion, and Informed Decision-Making.
Kering and LCF launch world's first online course in luxury sustainable fashion
“At Kering we believe that the shift towards sustainability and innovation in luxury fashion is not only an imperative, in our world of finite resources, but also a goldmine of opportunity,” said François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering speaking at the course launch on Tuesday. “We actively work with our Houses to craft tomorrow’s luxury via our 2025 sustainability strategy, but also wish to contribute to the evolution of luxury fashion as a whole, by sharing our expertise with industry counterparts and educating future generations. Today I am proud that Kering’s partnership with London College of Fashion takes a new step, making education accessible outside of the classroom with this the world’s first open-access digital course on sustainable luxury fashion.”
Building on from Kering’s and LCF current partnership, the course will cover both theoretical and real-life business cases luxury fashion brands may face when integrating sustainability into their business through a blend of films, podcasts, activities, and discussions. During a six-week period, spanning a total of 18 teaching hours, learners will have the chance to complete the course at their own pace, as the new platform is mobile, tablet and desktop friendly. “Over a year in the making and based on the research, teaching, and practice of Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion, UAL as well as the expertise and leadership of Kering’s Sustainability team, we are delighted to present the world’s first luxury fashion online course developed between higher education and industry,” said Professor Frances Corner, Head of London College of Fashion, UAL.
“This is significant because it signals a real desire and commitment from the industry to the ‘open sourcing’ of knowledge. Only through collaboration and the sharing of experience can we face the enormity of the challenges that lie ahead together. Often we can feel overwhelmed or unsure what sustainability means for our industry – we feel disempowered because there is no ‘one size fits all’ solution - but this course aims to empower aspiring and existing fashion professionals alike and help them develop their own manifesto for change.” Registration for the course opens on Tuesday at www.FutureLearn.com/courses/Fashion-And-Sustainability. The first 6-week edition of the new course is set to start on April 9 and will be openly available to everyone is interested in the course, with the aim of educating future talents, designers, luxury fashion professionals and members of the public with an interest in fashion. The course will run multiple times a year, and during each edition, students will have one week to complete each of the following 3-hour modules in their own time.
As part of the new platform’s rollout, LCF and Kering will be working together with the British Fashion Council (BFC) to reinforce a broader adoption of sustainable practices. Young British designers are previewing the platform through the BFC to ensure it is relevant to creative designers as well as luxury fashion professionals seeking to expand their sustainability knowledge. "In 2018 London Fashion Week focuses on Positive Fashion, an initiative designed to promote and celebrate diversity, sustainability, and openness; encouraging fashion to be used as a platform to promote global positive change, so we are thrilled that Kering and LCF have chosen to launch their new open-access digital course dedicated to sustainability with us today,” added Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council.
“Every season we see an increase in designer brands at LFW adhering to sustainable principles within their businesses and in turn promoting and contributing to positive change within our industry."
Photos: Courtesy of Kering x LCF
- Jackie Mallon |
As New York Fashion Week Men’s merges into Women’s, and Raf Simons and Tom Ford are the names of the moment, it’s easy to forget the emerging talent who have their eyes fixed on future runways and one day becoming the next Raf or Tom. But Joe Medved chooses this high spot on the fashion calendar to throw his annual silent auction to raise funds for the Joe’s Blackbook Scholarship. The scholarship, in its 8th year, awards 10,000 dollars each to one menswear and one womenswear student of junior year standing to be applied towards the student’s senior year’s tuition.
Merchandise lined the walls donated from Medved’s extensive network of industry connections––his black book––from brands such as Aesop, Supreme, Robert Geller, Opening Ceremony, Illesteva, Todd Snyder, Diptyque, La Colombe, and Common Projects, in the Flatiron showroom of LV Wood. From handmade Italian shoes to eyewear to artworks, there was something for everyone to bid on especially with a little encouragement from the wine and tequila bar. Included were items from the debut collection of Dashiel Brahmann, an FIT grad who won the menswear scholarship in 2014. An area in Joe’s BlackBook’s Soho studio has been serving as Brahmann’s showroom so that editors and retailers can view the young designer’s collection.
Finding the next great design talent
Meanwhile students in programs nationwide are preparing projects for the 2018 scholarship and the schools' internal deadline of February 26th. Faculty select their top three candidates and those projects will be submitted for First Round Judging/Employer Review which takes place in late March in both Los Angeles and New York City. Three finalists in each category will be notified and flown to NYC to present their work in person before the same panel in late April.
While there are many steps involved in becoming the next Raf or Tom the financial support from the scholarship as a student moves into their final year would certainly be a step in the right direction.
Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
Photos by Nick Steever.
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
The Commonwealth is to celebrate fashion across its 52 countries for the first time with the launch of the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange, an initiative from Liv Firth’s Eco-Age that aims to highlight the power and potential of artisan fashion skills to deliver new networks, trade links and sustainability.
The initiative will see fashion talent and artisan producers from 52 countries coming together in London, ahead of the Commonwealth Heads of Government meeting in London this April, as a way of showcasing the wealth of design and artisan fashion talent across the Commonwealth.
Design talent set to take part includes Burberry and Stella McCartney, who will be representing the UK, Karen Walker representing New Zealand and Bibi Russell for Bangladesh.
The first looks from the designer-producer partnership will be showcased at a special reception set to take place at Buckingham Palace during London Fashion Week in February, which will be attended by HRH The Duchess of Cambridge and HRH The Countess of Wessex.
The looks will then be displayed at Australia House in London from February 21, and in other locations across London, where the exhibition will be open to the public in the run-up to Commonwealth Heads of Government meeting in April.
In addition, the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange will have a dedicated platform on Google Arts and Culture, giving a global audience access to the looks in an online exhibition along with the stories of these extraordinary partnerships and a directory full of extra resources.
Commonwealth Fashion Exchange launches to promote fashion talent and artisan producers
The Right Honourable Patricia Scotland QC, Secretary-General of the Commonwealth, said: “The modern Commonwealth is young and creative. It represents a third of the world’s population, 60 percent of whom are under the age of 30. So fashion, alongside music and sport, represents a powerful common language and platform through which to influence young people around key issues.
“The Fashion Exchange has collaboration and partnership at its heart, forging new networks and making the Commonwealth Summit themes of prosperity, sustainability and fairness very real and tangible.”
The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange has been launched in partnership with Swarovski, The Woolmark Company and Matches Fashion, who will launch an edited collection in September this year, while Firth’s Eco-Age will manage the initiative.
Livia Firth, founder and creative director of Eco-Age, added: “This is a project rich in partnerships and creative co-design. For example, one of our very talented designers from India is paired with an artisan group in Tuvalu. As someone who is passionate about joining the threads of global fashion and creating real partnerships you can imagine how exciting it is for us to be involved.”
Daniel Hatton, chief executive and founder of The Commonwealth Fashion Council, said: “The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange is the beautiful result of cultures coming together. This project has provided a common sustainable ground which broadens networks and allows for the discovery of new friendships and processes, which enriches creativity.”
Image: via Eco-Age website
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
The International Talent Support competition held in Trieste in Italy for emerging fashion, accessories and jewellery talents is returning for its 16th edition in June, following the cancellation of last years edition due to insufficient funds.
The competition, which has helped launched the careers of designers including Demna Gvasalia, Peter Pilotto, Michael van der Ham, Aitor Throup, Mark Fast, and Haizhen Wang, has confirmed that it is returning for 2018 thanks to a partnership with Pitti Immagine, the Italian fashion chamber - the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Altaroma, which will help in the scouting and the promotion of young designers.
The Trieste-based design competition, which was founded in 2002 by Barbara Franchin to give emerging designers a platform to showcase their creativity, is also being backed by companies including OTB, the parent company of fashion brands Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, and Viktor&Rolf, as well as Swatch and Illycaffè, who are all resuming their partnership with the contest.
“ITS has always been an incredible source of energy and inspiration,” Rosso said in a statement. “Many of its finalists work in the style offices of the most well-known fashion houses of the world, without mentioning our own. I am happy to continue on our path together and I hope that more and more new talents will one day pride themselves to have started at ITS.”
International Talent Support calls for entries for 2018 edition
The 2018 contest will be held in Trieste on June 27 and the theme is about courage, ‘so bold, almost incredible’, which calls on young designers to “be bold” adding that the competition is looking for “an exciting new generation of talents who are strong in their desire to face the future and work towards that grand, global shift we've all began dreaming of”.
OTB will be the competition’s main fashion partner, awarding the OTB Award, alongside a 10,000 euro cash grant and the possibility of an internship in the style office of one of the group’s companies, while Swatch will award the Swatch Award with a cash prize of 10,000 euros as well as a six-month paid internship at its Swatch Lab in Zurich.
The other main prize is the ITS Award, which is given to the best fashion, accessories or jewellery finalists, and awards the winner a cash prize of 15,000 euros to help launch their collection. The winner also normally gets a feature in Vogue Italia’s supplement Vogue Talents.
The International Talent Support competition is open to all fashion, accessories and jewellery BA or MA students graduating in 2018, as well as young fashion talents not in possession of a diploma. With all entries being judged in April ahead of the finalists being revealed in early May.
The main event in June will feature a fashion show and exhibition, where all the winners will be unveiled.
The last edition in 2016 saw British footwear designer Helen Kirkum win the ITS Accessories Award as well as the Vogue Talents Award, while Royal College of Art graduates Niels Gundtoft Hansen won the OTB Award for his menswear collection, and jewellery designer Sari Rathel took home the ITS Jewellery Award. The main ITS Fashion Award was won by New Zealander Mayako Kano for her ‘Reverse Fade’ collection.
Images: International Talent Support website
- Jackie Mallon |
INTERVIEW As Graduate Fashion Week takes New York, I am granted a special audience with its organizers, Martyn Roberts, Managing and Creative Director, and Hilary Alexander OBE, industry trustee, whose schedule this week is packed with meetings with schools, industry, and the press. They have just returned from a breakfast thrown by Ralph Lauren in the penthouse of his Madison Avenue HQ during which executives from Michael Kors, Rag & Bone, Target, and Calvin Klein among others gathered to view the work of the selected 10 graduates, six from UK schools, four from the US.
Can you tell us about the concept behind Graduate Fashion Week?
Martyn: We are a bridge between education and industry. We get educators to understand what brands want and help graduates best prepare for the next step. The end result is to get young designers employment and allow the industry to get talent. It’s a sort of dating service; some universities are known for knitwear, some their menswear program, some are known for producing graduates that work well in a team, others for building unique creatives. The British education system is highly regarded, but it’s different from, say, the Chinese one, for example. So we have 32 UK universities involved and 36 international ranging from Tokyo to Sri Lanka to New York.
H: We created Graduate Fashion Week so that finding talent could be a much more democratic process. In the past headhunters were coming to the London schools but couldn’t afford the time to go all over England or Scotland. Now they can see all the work over three floors under one roof. Each university has a stand. In the 25 years of GFW, we’ve showcased the work of an estimated 100,000 graduates.
And why did you bring Graduate Fashion Week to NYC, and not, say Milan or Paris, or even one of the emerging market’s fashion capitals?
H: Paris and Milan are very close to us; they’re just across the water. America is a huge market and there is a long tradition of American brands like Donna Karan, Calvin, Ralph, hiring British graduates.––we counted three at a senior level in Ralph’s design team this morning. It’s just a way to spread the word. And it made sense for our sponsors, Smartfocus, who are here for a big show of their own.
Were there any exciting developments from this morning’s event?
M: We have many leads to follow, including professionals who want to mentor, and sponsor the designers. Our partners and sponsors need to get something from it too.
How did you select the ten graduates whose work you wanted to showcase in NYC?
M: We chose students who have a good story to tell and whose vision will be relevant to the US market. For example Claire Tagg, whose work was based on the uniforms of air hostesses––Claire used to be one herself––and you can see the pilot’s stripes in the jacket sleeves, and seatbelt fastening, and the intricate sequin embellishments which over time become distorted, as if through the course of a journey. She also has tremendous commercial appeal having designed a pre-Christmas collection for Marks & Spencers which sold out within one week.
Hilary, in the 25 years you have been involved with Graduate Fashion Week, how would you say the collections or the graduates have changed?
One thing that’s changed is the quality, the high standard of design, which has to do with the way the education system has developed. The graduate catwalk shows are so much more polished. It’s because of digital: students can now see how established designers are doing it and how the accessories and styling can say so much about your approach to design. There are many more awards now which raises the stakes, and not only best womenswear designer or menswear, but best portfolio, best illustration, best photography…We have one award called Catwalk To Store which recognizes a collection that is ready to drop in retail.
Graduate Fashion Week is a charity so do you run fundraising events throughout the year?
M: It’s not the same in the UK as the US. There isn’t so much philanthropy. Corporate sponsorship is the source of our funding; companies sponsor an award or an event or through digital like our sponsors for this event Smartfocus.
How does the British education system nurture its emerging talent?
H: In the last 2 decades, the UK has given great exposure to its designers, whether through Fashion Scout, Fashion East, NewGen as well as GFW. We have so much talent coming through. By now Alexander McQueen and John Galliano are vintage, then there’s the generation of Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem, and now a whole new crop, as well as the graduates placed in companies all over the world. In the UK we’ve probably got one of the best systems. It’s the envy of many countries; they don’t have this in Paris or Milan. It’s slightly similar in the US with the CFDA’s work with emerging designers. But we provide the means to be together under one roof, access to affordable means to stage a presentation; we have mentoring programs from established designers, print professionals, owners of fabric mills; we give a masterclass in how to make the most of portfolio, present yourself; there are even banks to advise on business and investment.
(As the garments are unzipped from their bags, something resembling a wreath of teddy bears falls out, and Hilary smiles and says, “Oh, Karl loved that.”)
What are the rewards of your role?
H: I got a phone call from Kate Clark who specialized in textiles and who is working at Chanel, and she has seen Karl several times now, including being squeezed inside that tiny rue Cambon elevator with him, but when they’re in big design meetings, she’s amazed. “We can do anything,” she says, “beading, embellishment, whatever we want, we can dream it and it will happen.” Hearing that, the view from the other side of Graduate Fashion Week, is lovely. Christopher Bailey is one of our patrons who just happened to be the first recipient of our Gold Award, then of course to see him go on to work at Donna Karan, then be hired at Burberry and the rest is history.
M: Our reward is making sense of how it all works together for everyone. All my grads are my children.
By contributing guest editor Jackie Mallon, who is on the teaching faculty of several NYC fashion programmes and is the author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
All images by Jackie Mallon for FashionUnited and Graduate Fashion Week
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
International showcase for emerging talent Fashion Scout has named the four winners of its Ones to Watch award for London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2018 - Maddie Williams, I Am Chen, Susan Fang and Kristel Kuslapuu.
For the first time in the history of the award, the autumn/winter 2018 winners are presenting in two different formats with Maddie Williams, I Am Chen and Susan Fang exhibiting in a group showcase in the vestibule catwalk hall, while the final winner Kristel Kuslapuu will be showcasing within the Fashion Scout presentation studio.
Fashion Scout founder and director Martyn Roberts said: “This season’s Ones to Watch truly demonstrates what the award was created to showcase and we are excited to have expanded the award across the catwalk and presentation studio to fit with our winner’s creative views.
“We have a bold and colourful eclectic mix of designers from diverse cultures, making Ones To Watch the highlight of the A/W 18 schedule.”
British designer Maddie Williams is a graduate from Edinburgh College of Art, who showed how ‘eco’ fashion can still be exciting and avant garde with her graduate collection in 2017 at Graduate Fashion Week. Her use of silhouette and texture saw her scoop both the Catwalk Textiles Award and Dame Vivienne Westwood Ethical Internship Prize.
On winning Ones to Watch, Williams said: “Receiving this award was something I was 100 percent not expecting, and took me completely by surprise! It was a very good surprise though and I am really humbled and excited to have been picked, it’s a great opportunity to get to generate some new work and show to a wider audience! I want to thank Fashion Scout for being so supportive of me and my progression as an emerging designer!”
I Am Chen
Hong Kong-based designer Zhi Chen, behind knitwear label I Am Chen, is the second winner, Chen completed a Masters at London College of Fashion. Her label, I Am Chen, is now in its third season and focuses exclusively on knitting with the aim of challenging the definition of knitting by creating garments made by advanced machines with new techniques, using unconventional yarns. The playful knitwear is already stocked in concept stores Machine-A, Siku and Art and Zimt.
“It is truly an honour,” said Chen upon winning Ones To Watch, “It strengthens my belief in knitwear and I am extremely excited about the runway show, it is going to be the first time I come back to London after I graduated.”
Central Saint Martins graduate Susan Fang has been developing her eponymous label for the past three years whilst working under major design houses. Her 2015 graduate collection was widely applauded by the press for presenting original alternatives to the usual garment, by exploring the interaction of the body with clothing, through the exploration of new colour dimensions and fresh silhouettes. Her autumn/winter 2018 is highly anticipated and will present an entirely new air-weave technique that allows the fabric itself to float between the two and three dimensional.
Fang said: “For an emerging designer and brand, Fashion Scout is a great platform and show to immediately be seen by such an wide audience and the press, as well as generous support from the Fashion Scout team and sponsors. I am extremely excited for this amazing opportunity to showcase my labels debut collection.”
The final winner is Estonian-based Kristel Kuslapuu, her eponymous label caught the eye of the judging panel at Talinn Fashion Week for her use of sculptural forms, bold colours, unique patterns, and for sharing provocative messages that transcend traditional gender conformity.
Kuslapuu said: “For me winning was a reassurance that I am at the right place doing the right thing. The excitement of fulfilling one of your dreams is indescribable. I really do feel like I have found something that I am meant to do.
“Whilst years are passing I feel more and more obliged to give back to mother earth and having this opportunity to share my art with the world is as given from above. I feel very grateful.”
This isn’t the first win for Kuslapuu, her label also scooped 2008 and 2009 SuperNoova in Estonia, Lithuania Fashion Injection and ERKI Fashion Show, alongside being showcased for Estonia at London Fashion Week in the International Fashion Showcase 2014.
Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch was created in 2014, the autumn/winter 2018 collaborative show to promote emerging talent will mark its 10th season. Previous winners that have seen their profile raised from the honour include Eudon Choi, Georgia Harding, Phoebe English, Helen Lawrence, and Edda.
Fashion Scout will present its Ones to Watch catwalk Show during London Fashion Week on February 18, while the presentation will take place on February 19.
Images: courtesy of Fashion Scout
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
OpenMyMed, a fashion prize from the Maison Méditerranéenne des Métiers de la Mode (Mediterranean House of Fashion Professions, MMMM), has named 13 emerging designers from across nine Mediterranean countries to take part in its programme to help them capitalise on marketing, commerce and communication.
Announced on January 15, the MMMM selected 13 new talents from more than 300 candidates who applied from 19 Mediterranean countries, selected by an International jury that included Simon Porte Jacquemus, Bruno Pavlovsky from Chanel, Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano, Christelle Kocher, and Lucien Pagès.
The winning designers of the eighth OpenMyMed prize are from France, Egypt, Spain, Israel, Lebanon, Morocco, Portugal, Tunisia, and Turkey.
France has the most winners, with four emerging designers selected to take part, including Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, who is set to launch a capsule collection capsule with French glove maker Agnelle this year, Nïuku, a menswear label by duo Lenny Guerrier and Kadiata Dialoo, who will show on-schedule at Men’s Paris Fashion Week, Maxime Barthel, a former production manager at Christian Louboutin, and Norah Luttway, a graduate from the ESSEC Business School, and her womenswear label Noliju.
13 emerging designers selected for OpenMyMed 2018
Egypt will be represented by Ama Saad, who has a diploma in jewellery making, while Anissa Meddeb, a graduate from Parsons in New York will represent Tunisia, and Elena Garcia Silva, from Spain will use the opportunity to develop her accessories label Lautem, which is already stocked at Wolf and Badger in London.
From Morocco, Laurence Leenaert who studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Ghent, Beligum was selected for her accessories brand Lrnce, alongside fellow Moroccan Zineb Britel for her footwear brand Zyne, while representing Israel is womenswear brand Tres, founded by three Shenkar Fashion Design School graduates and friends Noa Gur, Noy Goz and Dafna Rubin, and Luis Carvalho was selected for Portugal for his eponymous brand.
Rounding up the 13 designers taking part is Lebanese brand Second St, founded by a trio of designers, Sarah Hermez, Tracy Moussi and George Rouhana, and Turkish brand T.A.G.G, a ready-to-wear brand from Gokay Gundogdu.
Each designer selected will take part in a five day course at its Fashion Booster Campus in Marseille, where its staff will help support the young fashion designers in their international development by ensuring the coherence of their 360° brand image with the definition of their identity, both in physical and digital terms. The support package for each designer is estimated to be worth around 30,000 euros.
Image: via Maison Méditerranéenne des Métiers de la Mode website