The Gender-Bending Evolution of the Bias Cut

Although back in the headlines this week, the technique of bias cutting was referenced as far back as the Middle Ages. In the pre-knit era it was used in the creation of hose to improve fit, and bias strips of fabric had been regularly used to trim garments with ruffles and bind hems. But it wasn’t until the 1920s that it was elevated from a supporting role to star turn when French couturière Madeleine Vionnet applied the technique to floor-length satin eveningwear. Worn by the most glamorous stars of the day, such as Jean Harlow, Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich, bias cut soon became synonymous with a 30’s languid sensuality and the epitome of femininity.