TMU Professor aims to reshape plus-size fashion design education

A professor at Toronto Metropolitan University is working to address long-standing gaps in fashion education by focusing on patternmaking for plus-size bodies.

Leila Kelleher, a fashion scholar at the university’s School of Fashion, has co-authored a new textbook titled Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear with technical designer Gabby Brown. The publication is described as the first textbook dedicated entirely to patternmaking for plus-size garments, an area that has historically been overlooked in fashion curricula.

Traditional fashion education has long centred on standard sample sizes and thin body types, leaving students and industry professionals underprepared to design clothing that fits a wider range of consumers. The book aims to address this issue by providing step-by-step guidance on drafting patterns specifically for plus-size bodies and explaining considerations such as body proportions, mobility and garment fit.

According to Kelleher, the goal is to make this knowledge more accessible to educators and students so that size-inclusive design becomes part of standard training in fashion programs. By integrating these techniques into classrooms, the authors hope to improve garment fit and encourage future designers to create clothing for a broader range of body types.

The initiative reflects a broader shift within fashion education toward inclusivity and diversity in design practices. By introducing dedicated resources for plus-size patternmaking, the project seeks to equip the next generation of designers with the skills needed to serve a wider and more representative market.