Will "transmission" be the new buzzword in 2024? By featuring the first part of his Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show with twenty young students from the fashion schools IFM and Esmod, couturier Stéphane Rolland called attention to the challenge facing the world of Couture and luxury: the transmission of craftsmanship.
After ‘eco-friendly’, ‘ethical’, and ‘sustainable’ the fashion (marketing) vocabulary has enriched itself with the terms ‘transparency’ and ‘traceability’. In 2024, it is likely that the word ‘transmission’ will be at the heart of many storytelling narratives. The shortage of skilled labour, particularly expert hands, poses a real concern to the industry, leading to numerous events and announcements aimed at piquing the curiosity and interest of the younger generation.
The latest development is the presentation, ahead of Stéphane Rolland's Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show, of the works of twenty students from Esmod and IFM. Before the show, the couturier himself took the stage at the Pleyel hall (where his show took place during Couture Week in January 2024) to explain the work process behind the project.
A first in the world of appearances that is the fashion industry, where the final bow is customary. It is further evidence, if any were needed, of the generosity and humility of this independent couturier who actively engages with young designers, as seen during his role as the president of the jury at the Dinan Festival in 2022.
Among the participants from IFM are Louis Sébert, Liam Leclercq, Maureen Lecerf, Julien Noyerie, Gauthier Riva, Manon Cheruzel, Nathan Berlenguer, Zineb Badiaga, Serguei Josefovski, Mouthana Alhaj Ali. From Esmod Paris: Emma Blaison, Fifi Ezzekmi, Léa Bernard, Rasmus Olesand, Mathéo Pelmard, Pierre Pelouse, Martina Roses, Lucie Menand, Nicolas Martin, Honorine Touzet.
Titled "Sharing," the presentation of their silhouettes seems to align with the prospect of a "New Couture," suggesting a Couture that is renewed and perhaps detached from the adjective "Haute," who knows? While the students have learned a great deal from this transmission, it also offers their elders a glimpse into the world of Gen Z, whose approach to work, money, and fame creates a significant divide from the old ways.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit from French into English by Veerle Versteeg.