The fifth batch of graduates from the Casa93 fashion design programme in Montreuil, France, closed Paris Fashion Week with a show that combined the anger of a generation confronted with a system that is not always favourable to them with the energy of a talented youth, ready to take on the world.
Tuesday 4 October 2022: for the set design of the 'Carjack' fashion show, organised by Casa93 at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, the floor is strewn with what looks like a polystyrene reconstruction of a cityscape. The models who walk the catwalk will skilfully trample on this symbol of urbanisation. "Carjack is a collision," the press release says. From the uniformity of daily life to frenzy, via the reconnection to intimacy, the new group of Casa93 trainees wanted to denounce the violence of our era and the indifference of each person in the face of the societal issues that overwhelm them. As representatives of this somewhat problematic indifference, the models in the show symbolically ‘walk on the world’.
Casa93 or the revival of the punk attitude
There is anger but not spite... The approach is confident, full of that vitality that some have called "hatred" but which is above all a desire to refuse the orders from the top, because of which, today, they are on the sidelines of society - not born on the right side of the barricade - but so up-to-date that in this passion we see a reflection of the 'revolt' that Demna conveys in his shows for Balenciaga (but through other means).
The artistic direction for the show at Paris Fashion Week was carried out by 17 young designers, namely Casa93 students Mavis Ahmes, Charlotte Charton, Leo Ciavarella, Nana Dabo, Khal Fergoug, Lou-Hân Gaillard, Cyrielle Gallais, Iris Imbert, Freddy Lassey, Cristale Maillot, Isis Mbango, Nour Mohammedi, Zoe Nguyen, Francine-A. Nkou, Cesar Noyer, Tali Ricard, and Hyphialtes.
When it comes to style, we see recycled, upcycled fabrics in the Casa93 show, a type of fashion that, as a whole, doesn't conform to gender identities, and is inclusive. The catwalk presentation features lots of blacks, greys, whites, and dark reds as well as pieces of tyres for bags, chains for shoulder straps and leathers and vinyls presented in the form of zips that swirl around a bodycon dress. Think transparent detailing, perforated fabric, lacings and laced fabrics combined with biker shoes... And then, at the end of the show, one could see a relaxed approach to what people will say were more than sexy outfits that reveal the intimacy of a pair of panties, or perhaps a breast or a derrière. A slightly trashy interpretation of reality? Not even close! Welcome to the northeastern suburbs of Paris (where the town of Montreuil, the home of Casa93, is located).
This first collective collection bij Casa93 symbolises the value of a group of young designers led by Nadine Gonzalez. In a press release, the founder and co-director of Casa93 expresses her thanks to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the decisive support of forecasting agency Peclers, retailer La Redoute and the association About A Worker, whose objective is to highlight workers by promoting their conditions and know-how. Are human beings on the way to becoming the heart of the fashion business process?
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR and has been translated and edited into English by Veerle Versteeg.