What are the business opportunities for participants in the Hyères Festival?

As the 39th edition of the Hyères Festival drew to a close with Dolev Elron winning the Grand Prix from the Première Vision jury, FashionUnited set out to meet the former candidates of the contest, to find out what they have been up to since taking part, speaking to Laura Sonney, Christophe Lhote, Christoph Rumpf, Emma Bruschi, Normann Mabire Larguier and Igor Dieryck, all of whom were present at this year's edition.

The exhibition, ‘The Formers’ by Première Classe, a trade show partner of the Hyères Festival, at the Villa Romaine, on display during the four days of the festival (Thursday October 10 to Sunday October 13, 2024) inspired this article. Thirteen former participants in the Hyères Festival showcased their work in the exhibition.

Laura Sonney, fashion finalist 2022

After the festival, it was very difficult to go back. You have all these dreams in your head and when you don't win, it's hard, 2022 fashion finalist Laura Sonney tells FashionUnited.

It's not so much the financial investment, but the fact that you have the impression that this prize is going to change your life and launch your career.”

It's a myth that doesn't exist. It's all about meeting people and getting the timing right. You can't stop at the festival, you have to keep believing in your dreams and tell yourself that it's going to take time.

I met Mauro Grimaldi from AZ Factory at the festival in October 2022. A month later, he asked me to create ten looks for AZ Factory and it was six months before he got back to me. This kind of offer is good for communication, but financially it's not enough to earn a living.

Fortunately, in the meantime, I got a permanent contract with Schaeffer, a textile embellishment company. I got the job because I designed an outfit for the Chanel award, which was presented during the festival, and I worked for the Chanel collections.

Following these initial experiences, I joined the IFM incubator (for a fee) to benefit from coaching and launch my own brand. I was lucky enough to win the AMI x IFM entrepreneurship prize worth 20,000 euros in May 2024. The idea was for business students to help me with my business development activities, how to set prices, for example.

Today, my aim is to launch my collection under the name Lora Sonney. I need to find business angels to finance production. I'm at the festival for 'The Formers by Première Classe' exhibition, which I've never been to before. I would have liked to meet some buyers there to get a feel for the market. What's the best option when you have enough of a high end product?

Christophe Lhote, accessories finalist 2017

Christophe Lhote was a competitor in the very first edition of the fashion accessories awards.

By participating in the festival competition, you gain credibility. Even now, all you have to do is say you were a finalist and you're in the running. During the festival, some brands came to see me to offer me full-time work, but that wasn't my objective.

That same year (2017), I was awarded the Grand Prix de la Création by the City of Paris. This enabled me to create my own brand while designing for different houses. I've always been supported, as I've benefited from various exhibitions within the Première Classe show, thanks to which I've been able to set up in some beautiful boutiques.

These shops include Tomorrowland, Via Bus Stop in Tokyo, Japan, Rue Pigalle in Toronto, Canada, Blu boutique in Capri, Italy, Oups in Toulouse, France, Duchatel in Biarritz, France, and more.

The latest news is that my brand is now operated by a manufacturing and distribution licensee called Bellon & Fils, which has been making jewellery for over a hundred years. I'm still involved, but it's a relief. We're opening up marketing to the HBJO (Horloger-Bijoutier-Joaillier) network, whereas previously I was only referenced by multi-brands.

Christoph Rumpf, winner of the 2019 ‘Grand Prix Mode'

The festival changed everything for Christoph Rumpf, winner of the 2019 ‘Grand Prix Mode'. I was a student at the University of Applied Arts, Vienna and I wanted to join a fashion house. Winning gave me the opportunity to start my own label after finishing my studies. In 2020, like all the finalists, I showcased my collection on the runway of the Festival and then, thanks to Serge Carreira, I joined the Sphère showroom for six seasons.

My collection wasn't really marketable, because it was based on upcycling and was therefore very difficult to produce. What I made back then is very different from what I make now. You have to think about consumers and products. It's difficult: I work alone, I don't come from a wealthy background and the fashion market isn't doing very well.

I'm supported by the Austrian Fashion Association, but this doesn't amount to much financial support. I've done some collaborations such as the ones with Petit Bateau, after the festival, and the Robert La Roche glasses. In Paris, I'm represented by the Untitled showroom.

Emma Bruschi, winner of the M19 Chanel Métiers d'Art 2020 fashion prize

My prize in 2020 wasn't a sum of money, but it did allow me to make three pieces for Lemarié, Paloma and Goossens, with an allocated budget. I was able to market these items.

Following the Festival, I set up my own self-funded business, she tells FashionUnited. As I do a great deal of work using traditional skills, people are keen to learn. So I organise training workshops, notably at Villa Noailles and 19M. Or, because I use straw material so much, I create set designs for events or large pieces such as the ones I crafted fot Charlotte Chesnais and Hermès. So I don't just make a living from selling my creations.

Normann Mabire Larguier, fashion finalist 2023

For Normann Mabire Larguier, one of the fashion finalists during the 2023 edition, the Hyères Festival is rewarding, because it gives you the chance to meet people from the fashion industry. In the space of a year, I've gone from finalist to designer-entrepreneur.

My collaboration with La Redoute predates my participation in the Festival, but it has taken on a new dimension, as it was launched a month later. The constraints aren't the same, but we can still put together pieces that retain my DNA and aren't too expensive, [that is to say] cost less than a hundred euros.

Recently, I launched my first Couture campaign with trans artist Raya Martigny as my muse. It is a niche project, but it is still versatile. I've just joined Les Ateliers de Paris, an incubator for young designers that gives me my first workshop/showroom.

In mid-November, I'll be taking part in Hong Kong Fashion Week and will be present there with my own showroom. My aim is to expand in Asia, so this is an opportunity to meet my market.

Igor Dieryck, winner of the ‘Grand Prix Mode’ 2023

The Hyères Festival is mainly a showcase, Igor Dieryck, last year’s winner of the Fashion Grand Prix says. What happens afterwards depends on the finalist.

I tried to be as responsive as possible. I benefited from collaborations with Chanel and Les Galeries Lafayette. Five pieces are now available in store. I was paid for this work. It's like having a job on the side (Igor Dieryck is a junior designer for the men's ready-to-wear collections at Hermès, editor's note).

I showed my collection at the Première Classe fair. In an unrelated move, I got in touch with Dover Street Market, who agreed to sell the shoes in my collection. In addition, I collaborated with the Belgian brand Komono to design eyewear.

I negotiated a contract with my employer that has allowed me to undertake these various projects. It ends in mid-October 2024, and I'm no longer allowed to work on my own collection then. I'm now returning to work full-time for Hermès.

FashionUnited editor Florence Julienne was invited by WSN Developpement to attend Hyères Festival 2024.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR, translated with the help of an AI-tool and edited by Veerle Versteeg.