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Runway to retail – Coastal Cowgirl

By Jayne Mountford


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Bronx & Banco, Luisa Spagnoli/ Launchmetrics Spotlight/Mumu.com

The overwhelming popularity of the tv show ‘Yellowstone,’ set in the farmlands of Montana, has inspired a renewed interest in cowboys, their culture and their clothing. It has had a huge impact on various social media platforms where users have taken the look and made it their own. According to Bustle, the ‘coastal cowgirl’ aesthetic began life as a TikTok trend. It has become so popular that the hashtag #coastalcowgirl has so far garnered 44.5 million views on the platform.

Coastal Cowgirl blends together elements of laid back Californian lifestyle with touches of south-western flare. It’s a look that can be sweet or sexy, and aside from obvious items like fringed jackets, western boots, hats and belts, the genre includes ripped shorts and bustiers in denim, eyelet, crochet and prairie dresses and ruffled skirts.

Tracing the trend

Ralph Lauren ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Ralph Lauren is credited with making cowboy boots and hats fashionable, having shown them on the runway as early as 1979. It’s a style that the designer delivers season after season, to this day. Lauren embraced the coastal cowgirl look again during his SS23 runway show

The Coachella Effect

The Coachella music festival began in 1999. Over time, its ability to draw headlining acts, and proximity to main Southern Californian hubs like Los Angeles, has led to its overwhelming popularity. The desert location has meant that celebrities, influencers and mainstream festival-goers have all embraced the ‘coastal cowgirl’ aesthetic, even before it received the moniker. It’s a ‘street style’ that has even influenced runway designers the world over.

On the runway 2020 - 2023

Spring/summer 2020

Bronx & Banco ss20/Launchmetrics Spotlight

From Natalie De Banco of Bronx & Banco, look 17 included a deep vee jumpsuit in a scarf print, with a western belt, orange suede boots, a hat with a high crown and a fringed suede bag. Look 13 (main photo) consisted of a crochet skirt over a shiny bodysuit accessorized with turquoise suede boots, a snakeskin western belt and jewelry.

LaQuan Smith ss20/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At LaQuan Smith, look 43 included a body-conscious denim tunic with built-in bustier by Jordache and a black straw Stetson from Eric Javitts.

Spring/summer 2022

Luisa Spagnoli S22/Launchmetrics Spotlight

From Nicoletta Spagnoli, the designer of Luisa Spagnoli, look 19 was a short white eyelet dress under a brown blazer. Accessories included a straw Stetson, a brown leather belt with a silver and turquoise buckle with matching cuffs and strappy sandals.

Kim Shui fss22/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At Kim Shui, look 21 included a cut-out tunic in a chinoiserie print material, a white stetson and embroidered knee-high western boots.

Fall/Winter 2023

Philipp Plein fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At Philipp Plein’s show, look 10 included a leather bustier and ruffled mini skirt, a double belt, silver cowboy boots and a sequin hat. Look 3 was a two-piece denim suit with a cropped pieced-in jacket and matching mini; a denim cowboy hat and silver boots.

Spring 2023 retail Items

Courtesy: Free People

Straw cowboy hat by Free People

Courtesy: Zara

Denim bustier by Zara

Courtesy: Aelfric Eden

Raw Ripped Denim Shorts by Aelfric Eden

Courtesy/Veronica Beard

Daeja eyelet dress by Veronica Beard

Courtesy: Show me your mumu
Carrie collared dress by Show me your Mumu
Courtesy: Free People Vintage

Vintage Gunne Sax calico dress from the Free People virtual flea market

Courtesy: Dingo

White fringed cowboy boots by Dingo

Courtesy: Dolce Vita

Metallic silver cowboy boots by Dolce Vita

Courtesy: B-Low

Western belt by B-Low

Runway to retail