EU aims for circularity, but textile consumption rises

The European Union is striving for a circular textile industry, shifting the focus from fast fashion to more durable products. The emphasis for the next five years will be on reuse and recycling. Simultaneously, textile consumption within the EU has increased. In 2019, the average citizen consumed 17 kg of textiles per year, while this rose to 19 kg per person in 2022, according to a new report from the European Environment Agency (EEA).

In 2022, the textile sector ranked fifth on average out of twelve consumption categories in households regarding the use of raw materials, water, and land, as well as greenhouse gas emissions. Despite efforts to implement more sustainable solutions, the environmental pressure remains significant (for example, it's no secret that the production of a new pair of jeans consumes an average of 25,000 liters per kilogram. The EU faces the challenge that consumer behavior is not changing rapidly enough on the path toward a circular textile industry.

Sustainability Remains a Secondary Concern for Dutch Consumers

This challenge is also evident in the Netherlands. A recent study by Multiscope shows that sustainability is not yet the primary factor for Dutch consumers when purchasing apparel. Price and product assortment remain the most decisive purchase drivers, despite the growing attention to sustainability within the fashion industry.

The EEA emphasizes the need for a "system change" to truly make the textile sector sustainable. This means that everyone in the industry, from policymakers to consumers, must contribute to the transition toward a more sustainable textile industry.

Digital Technology: Threat and Opportunity

Digital technologies offer both opportunities and risks for the sustainability of the textile sector. On the one hand, technological innovations can improve efficiency in textile production, potentially reducing the environmental footprint. On the other hand, these technologies can also contribute to an increase in textile consumption. Social media and online platforms play a significant role in this.

One example is the use of platforms like TikTok and Instagram, where consumers share 'Hauls'. These are videos in which people showcase their purchases from fast fashion brands like Shein. They flaunt their new clothes and demonstrate the trends they follow. These videos influence other users to also buy clothes, encouraging them to increase their consumption. This strengthens the demand for new clothing and contributes to overconsumption.

However, technology can also be utilized for sustainable goals within the EU, the EEA underscores. Innovations in textile production, such as decarbonizing the industry through digital innovations, contribute to the EU's competitiveness, according to the EEA. The EU textile industry remains a significant contributor to the European economy: In 2023, the sector had a turnover of 170 billion euros and employed approximately 1.3 million people.

The EU strategy with a new 'Competitiveness Compass' for the EU will "guide the work over the next 5 years and list priority actions to revitalize economic dynamism in Europe," according to the EEA. The report, which the EEA plans to present on Wednesday, is supported by policy measures such as the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) and the revision of the Waste Framework Directive. These guidelines include the requirement for recycled material in textile products and the implementation of Digital Product Passports (DPP). The EEA expects that the new legislation, which requires textiles to be collected separately from other waste starting in January 2025, will improve the recycling process in the European Union.