Fibre fragmentation is the breakdown of textile fibres into smaller parts, for example when washing or wearing clothes but also during the dyeing process. Particularly harmful is the release of tiny pieces of synthetic fibres, namely microplastics. They can accumulate in the ecosystem and pollute it and waterways, harm aquatic life by entering their food chain and thus reach humans too. Microplastics can also absorb and transport pollutants.

A new study by global sustainability initiative Fashion for Good and The Microfibre Consortium has investigating the key drivers of fibre fragmentation. “Behind the Break: Exploring Fibre Fragmentation” wants to challenge root causes and assumptions, address data gaps and validate test methods.

The project brings together major fashion brands and manufacturers, including Adidas, Bestseller, C&A, Inditex, Kering, Levi Strauss & Co., Norrona, On, Paradise Textiles and Positive Materials. Under Armour has joined as a project partner. Testing will be conducted across three laboratories from Paradise Textiles, Under Armour and the Impact+ Network from Northumbria University in the UK to analyse fibre fragmentation in three fabric types such as cotton knit, cotton woven and polyester knit.

Understanding the root causes of fibre fragmentation

“Fibre pollution is a challenge that the industry faces as a whole, so we are partnering with The Microfibre Consortium to contribute to the foundation of data that will help us better understand the root causes of fibre fragmentation. The focus on different testing methods will allow us to reduce uncertainty, take a common direction and set priorities for future research and initiatives within the industry,” comments Katrin Ley, managing director at Fashion for Good, in a press release.

To identify the most effective approaches to tackling fibre fragmentation at the source, the project takes a five-pronged approach: enhancing test methods, strengthening data correlation, driving improvements, supporting stakeholders and informing policy.

Thus, it will validate and refine testing techniques to ensure accuracy, reliability and alignment with industry standards, compare results across methods to identify variations, uncover discrepancies and establish clearer data connections. The research will also address limitations in current methods, expand databases and support better design and supply chain practices. It will also equip partners and industry players with practical strategies to reduce fragmentation through improved design and manufacturing. Finally, it should provide valuable insights into contamination and fibre structures to shape effective regulations and policies.

“By conducting this study, we are taking a proactive approach to addressing microfibre release. Our goal is to leverage data-driven insights to improve our processes, product design and sourcing practices, thereby contributing to a less polluting industry. Collaboration across stakeholders is crucial to accelerating our progress toward a more sustainable future,” states On’s textile innovation lead Lucie Anne Martinol in the press release.

“Positive Materials believes that reducing fibre fragmentation requires innovation at every stage. Our partnership with Fashion for Good and The Microfibre Consortium on ‘Behind the Break’ is critical because we are not just aiming to reduce shedding; we are making sure our materials maintain the high standards our customers depend on. It is about finding that balance where environmental responsibility drives innovation, not compromises it,” adds Elsa Parente, co-CEO and CTO of Positive Materials.

The “Behind the Break” report can be downloaded from the Fashion for Good website.