Kering’s long-anticipated announcement of Demna as Gucci’s new artistic director was met with a tepid response from investors, falling short of the market confidence the luxury conglomerate had likely hoped for. Shares in Kering closed 10 percent lower on Friday, underscoring concerns that the appointment alone is not enough to signal a decisive turnaround for Gucci’s struggling sales.

Investor skepticism stems from uncertainty over whether Demna’s design philosophy aligns with Gucci’s heritage. Known for his avant-garde approach and disruptive marketing strategies at Balenciaga, Demna’s aesthetic sensibilities lean heavily into streetwear and conceptual fashion—an approach some view as at odds with the Florentine house’s more traditional codes of luxury.

Investor skepticism

“The appointment comes with both risk and opportunity,” said Carole Madjo, analyst at Barclays. Demna, analysts note, was instrumental in propelling Balenciaga’s revenues from 350 million euros to over 2 billion euros, demonstrating a keen ability to connect with younger consumers and drive commercial success. However, his tenure was not without controversy, as past marketing missteps prompted public backlash, raising concerns about whether he is the right custodian for Gucci’s brand equity.

Luca Solca, a leading analyst at Bernstein, offered a lukewarm assessment, rating the appointment a five out of ten. “He is iconoclast and ironic, which is good to attract attention toward a small brand like Balenciaga. However, we are not sure the strategy would work as well for a bigger brand: it defies the point of selling exclusivity by the million.”

Solca further remarked, “We are not sure that Demna measures up to the task, nor that he is the right fit for Gucci at the moment, but we understand their risk minimization strategy: going for the well known.”

A lukewarm reception

The urgency of Kering’s decision is evident. After Sabato De Sarno’s tenure failed to deliver the anticipated commercial recovery following Alessandro Michele’s departure, the group found itself under mounting pressure to secure a creative leader capable of reigniting momentum. The challenge has been exacerbated by talent moving across Kering’s portfolio, like Sarah Burton from McQueen to Givenchy, while Matthieu Blazy’s recent move from Bottega Veneta to Chanel further depleted Kering’s internal design bench. With Gucci’s sales continuing to stagnate, delaying the appointment for another season was not a viable option.

The appointment also raises questions about how Gucci’s brand identity will evolve under Demna’s leadership. Some industry observers speculate that the house may undergo yet another radical reinvention, potentially involving shifts in logo design, store layouts, and core aesthetic codes. Given Demna’s reputation for challenging convention, the extent to which he will rewrite Gucci’s visual language remains an open question.

Supporters of the decision argue that Demna is well-equipped for the challenge, possessing a far greater design range than he is often credited for. His latest Autumn Winter 2025 collection for Balenciaga showcased his skill as a tailor, indicating a depth that extends beyond his more conceptual, streetwear-driven output.