New LCF exhibition celebrates role of costume in folk customs

University of the Arts London (UAL) has announced its next major exhibition, "Making More Mischief: Folk Costume in Britain," opening from April 9th to June 22nd, 2024, at LCF’s new location in East Bank, Stratford’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.

“Making More Mischief” serves as the highly anticipated sequel to Compton Verney’s 2023 exhibition, “Making Mischief: Folk Costume in Britain”. This innovative exhibition explores the vital role of costume in the thriving folk customs across Britain, highlighting the diverse individuals who bring them to life.

In collaboration with the Museum of British Folklore and supported by The National Lottery Heritage Fund, LCF’s latest exhibition delves deeper into these themes, focusing on London-specific perspectives to examine class, sexuality, ethnicity, and identity. The exhibition challenges preconceived notions that folk cultures and customs must be fixed or nostalgic, emphasizing their dynamic and evolving nature.

Flamboyant dressing at carnivals

Traditions such as London’s carnivals, Doggett’s Coat and Badge Race, Swan Upping, and Somali May Day traditions are showcased, celebrating the shared values of folk dress rooted in identity, non-conformity, and subversiveness. Highlights of the exhibition include immersive installations such as PXSSY PALACE (PP), which explores the evolution of folklore through intentional nightlife movements, as well as displays featuring costumes and items from London's vibrant carnivals and the iconic Pearly Kings and Queens.

Dr. Leila Nassereldein, Cultural Producer at LCF, UAL, said: “LCF’s Making More Mischief explodes static notions of folklore, celebrating its inherent dynamism as lived culture. PXSSY PALACE, a QTBIPOC club night founded collaboratively by Nadine Noor, embodies this evolution, fearlessly reimagining archetypes through a global-majority lens to forge a vibrant, inclusive folklore that mirrors the pulse of East London. The installation dissects the transformative power of PXP, from its house party roots to global resonance. With recently captured club night field recordings, we unveil the ephemeral – moments of queer joy, love, liberation, and resistance that redefine our cultural narratives.”

Simon Costin, of the Museum of British Folklore, said: “Folk customs are so often overlooked by museums and the Museum of British Folklore (MoBF) aims to address this by producing exhibitions that present British folk traditions in unexpected ways. MoBF has an expansive approach to the seasonal customs of the UK. For example, Notting Hill Carnival has over 2 million people attending every year and Hackney Carnival involves diverse groups who reflect the rich culture of East London. The Pearly Kings and Queens are a great example of a long-standing tradition which still thrives today. Folk customs are constantly changing and evolving, and we hope Making More Mischief at LCF captures that." 

The exhibition will be open from April 9th to June 22nd, 2024, at London College of Fashion.