Woolrich under new ownership: BasicNet's vision for the heritage brand
When Turin-based BasicNet acquired Woolrich late last year, the deal reflected the strengthening of a portfolio already rife in cultural heritage. The US brand’s fervour for authenticity and outdoor tradition aligned fittingly with BasicNet’s already extensive roster of brands, spanning Kappa and K-Way to Superga and Sebago. Now, at the ongoing Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence, Woolrich’s new owners spoke of the opportunities they envision for the brand and where they want to take it.
Rich archive to influence more contemporary approach to product
During a press conference, BasicNet’s co-CEO, Lorenzo Boglione, started out by saying it was an honour and a big responsibility to take over the reins at Woolrich as “custodians of the brand”. “We have to take care of [brands] and make sure that they develop commercially within the boundaries of their history,” he stated, before pointing to archival and heritage products dotted around Woolrich’s exhibition space, suggesting the influence the brand’s archive will have on product strategy.
Marco Tamponi appointed global brand manager
The turnaround will be overseen by Marco Tamponi, who has been appointed global brand manager for Woolrich. Tamponi has already been with BasicNet for over eight years, first tasked with developing the Sebago brand before taking over as creative director and global brand manager for other labels in the Italian group’s portfolio. Woolrich is the latest addition to his responsibilities, also spanning Superga and Sundek, which BasicNet acquired in December.
“Marco’s [task] will be to navigate all of this overwhelming history, making sure we manage to make it contemporary, wearable and interesting for the final consumers,” Boglione added. “We are here for the long-run. We are not in a hurry. We will do things step by step, but of course, we have ambitious plans.”
In his own statement, Tamponi further underlined Woolrich’s rich history, dating back to its inception in 1830, and how this will influence future collections. “The big challenge would be how to move all this heritage and all this history into a contemporary mindset of outdoor lifestyle and a full brand, characterised by outerwear, but with an amazing range of ready-to-wear inspired by the history of print,” Tampon said.
The UK and France show growth potential
In terms of business strategy, the BasicNet team says it does not typically formulate strict business plans, preferring to rely on gut feeling. While Woolrich halved in size over the past few years due to a challenging period, the brand still currently operates around 20 stores across Italy, Germany and the Netherlands, its biggest markets. Boglione, however, sees opportunities to open more locations and expand globally, citing the UK and France as potential areas of growth.
“We, as a group, can help the brand grow in the next 10 years,” Boglione said. “We are not looking at what’s going to happen next year or the year after. We’re really planning to restructure the brand for the long-run.”
FashionUnited's managing editor Germany & Switzerland, Ole Spötter, attended the press conference at Pitti Uomo, in Florence.