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5 Emerging labels to watch at New York Fashion Week

By Jackie Mallon


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Look from Chan Chit Lo's Mother of the Sea collection Credits: ChanChitLo.com

New York Fashion Week begins this week and, like every season, it will host a sprinkling of new and emerging talents that command attention. Some sell primarily online, others have begun to acquire brick and mortar stockists. Here is our round-up of the 5 brands worth keeping an eye on for spring 24.


Items from Keith Herron’s Advisry Credits: Advisry.com

Making its womenswear debut on the official schedule at 3pm on Sunday, Advisry was founded by 23-year-old Brooklyn-based Keith Herron as a community-focused brand inspired by the founder’s love of cinema, graphics, and Americana.

  • Known for: Signature knits with the ADV logo
  • Price point: Graphic hoodies sell for 150 dollars, knits for 325 dollars and the Camera bag starts at 238 dollar
  • Distribution: The brand drops collections on its website, in pop-ups, and sells on BlackFashionFair.org and at ComplexCon, the California event where pop culture, art and music converge
  • Recent projects: A collaboration with the estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat for “Conveyer Belt of Life” collection. This summer Advisry released its first handbag, the Camera Bag, its shape inspired by the timeless allure of vintage cameras


Sculptural luxury from Fforme Credits: Fforme.com

Gaining recognition for its lustrous fabrics and stealth wealth aesthetic Fforme will show at 12 pm on Sunday. Designed by Paul Helbers, who has previously worked under Martin Margiela, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton and The Row, the architectural but sophisticated shapes marry commerce and design in a desirably neutral palette.

  • Known for: ‘Maya’ bias-cut T-shirt and Nola cropped down jacket
  • Price point: Clothing ranges from 900 dollars for shirts to 4990 dollars for coats
  • Distribution: Airmail.com; Own website
  • Recent projects: Fall 23 collection was presented in a Chelsea art gallery, setting an intentional tone for how the brand is positioning itself

Grace Ling

Clothes and accessories by Grace Ling Credits: GraceLing.com

New York-based Singaporean Ling trained with Thom Browne and The Row before launching her subversive and playful brand in 2020 and will make her NYFW debut on opening day, September 8.

  • Known for: 3D printed metal pieces
  • Price point: Clothing and accessories ranging from 390- 2950 dollars
  • Distribution: Net a porter; FWRD; LabStore London; Curve LA; Jimmy’s NYC; Peri. A Beverly Hills; ROYA Israel; and own website
  • Recent projects: Inducted into the CFDA as an interim member and, just announced, Ling won the CFDA’s inaugural AAPI Design and Innovation Grant.

Chan Chit Lo

Chan Chit Lo's "Mother of the Sea" collection Credits: Chanchitlo.com

Founded in 2019 by Venus Lo who is based between New York and Shanghai, Chan Chit Lo takes the premise of “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure’ to a luxury level for the brand’s 2-day handcrafted knitwear-focused presentation during NYFW via appointments on Sept. 9.

  • Known for: Knitwear made of recycled denim yarn
  • Price point: Upon request
  • Distribution: Own website
  • Recent projects: A finalist for the 2022 Yu Prize, Chan Chit Lo expanded to launch a concise range of homeware pieces in recycled leather

Sho Konishi

Collections by Sho Konishi Credits: ShoKonishi.com

Japanese born New York-based fashion and costume designer’s eponymous label will debut at NYFW on September 13. His wearable art brand founded in 2019 has already been worn by Saweetie, Chloe X Halle, and Lizzo.

  • Known for: Silver chrome vinyl armor pieces
  • Price point: Clothing and accessories range from 40 dollars for flip flops to 2500 dollars for exclusive items
  • Distribution: Own website
  • Recent projects: Collaborated on a fall/winter 23 runway show for Japanese label Khoki shown in Tokyo; designed outfit worn by musical act at the Tokyo Paralympics opening ceremony, and the costumes for musical “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory" showing at Tokyo’s Imperial Theater in October 23
Labels To Watch