Bare legs, new talent and vintage luxury on the catwalks of Milan
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For the first time since March last year, Milan hosted fashion week. Between 21 and 27 September, 43 physical shows were on the schedule, plus 41 events and 98 presentations, mostly for the public. The security measures were occasionally stringent, with a heavily reduced number of seats. For quite a few labels, this resulted in the barring of journalists from the Benelux collectively. Among them Versace, Etro, Ferragamo, Marni, Cavalli and Fendi.
Asian spectators were scarce, but the American guests were given extra treats. At Dolce & Gabbana, for example, Vogue heads Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful were given twice as much space on the front row as other guests. A throne, crown and sceptre treatment was on all of our minds. However, due to the smaller number of spectators, the fashion week often suffered from a lack of atmosphere.
The Teatro Armani, where the designer celebrated the fortieth anniversary of his label Emporio Armani, is already quite chilly under normal circumstances, but with half-full stands, a party atmosphere was nowhere to be found. As always, Armani used its own staff to applaud loudly during key moments. That had not changed at all.
Boss went for a charming offensive
At Boss, the atmosphere was not an issue. For the presentation of its second collaboration with Russell Athletic, the German brand rented the Kennedy sports field on the outskirts of the city and installed a typical baseball game, complete with fanfare, cheerleaders, popcorn, hot dogs, an enthusiastic announcer and mascots. Models donned the easy, American sportswear of Boss and Russell, with top model Gigi Hadid in the lead. The launch of the see now buy now collection was very reminiscent of recent Tommy Hilfiger shows. This comes as no surprise, as former CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Worldwide and PVH Europe, Daniel Grieder, has been running Hugo Boss since June. High fashion history has never been made on a baseball field, nor was it intended to be, but Boss’ event was the most extravagant moment of the week.
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