- Kristopher Fraser |
New York - NYFW: Men's rolled along with day 3, and the tides took a different turn today as designers got a little more bohemian for their collections. Asaf Ganot, who is famous for his deconstructed luxury, with elements like boiled wool and abraded corduroy being common in his collections, went more streetwear this season, with Brazilian cities as the inspiration for his collection. The result was a collection that is very casual cool with white pants, shorts, and free-fitting jackets. Ganot kept up with the free-fitting theme in menswear, and stayed away from doing anything too tailored.
Nautica was also with the casual cool vibe in men's wear this season, as they presented a collection that was filled with swimwear and comfortable jackets and sweaters. If one thing is clear about the American men's fashion market, it's staying true to the casual nature of the American man, they are careful when they introduce something too rigid or flamboyant. Bohemian chic seems to be a theme that could be taking over men's fashion though as evidenced by Greg Lauren and Gypsy Sport. Lauren sent a whopping 62 looks down the runway, perhaps more than any designer all NYFW: Men's.
The painter turned designer who is the nephew of fashion designer Ralph Lauren, apparently stays far away from the classic preppy country club tropes his uncle built his entire fashion empire on. Instead, the designer's signature would have to be his deconstruction techniques, which left the entire feel of the collection very bohemian. There was no fine tailoring, but, rather, baggy jackets and cargo pants with lots of pockets, tank tops, light-weight sweaters leaving plenty of room to breathe, and Western style hats and overalls.
Day 3 of NYFW: Men's displayed a whole different set of trends
Lauren has worked to find his very original mark, and no one can accuse him of copying off his iconic uncle. Gypsy Sport, who just last night received word that they'd be finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, showed what the industry would be in store for if they were to win the coveted prize. Their collection was a cross between bohemian chic and 90s era hip-hop with tank top and short combinations that seemed to be inspired by basketball uniforms, jersey style fabrics, and hats that Snoop Dogg would be in line for.
Of course, it wasn't all bohemian chic and streetwear yesterday. Two brands reminded us that there are still those in America who are keeping it classy. Theory, which recently underwent rebranding by changing the font of their logo, gave us a taste of what is to come for the newly minted Theory. Their rooftop presentation showcased offerings for both men and women in their classic black tailored pants, preppy and business ready black jackets, and of course, a Theory staple: a blue dress shirt.
It was very business traditional, but had a very high fashion edge. Loris Diran also seemed to be taking a page out of the classic menswear with an edge book. The designer, who is famous for dressing stars like Ricky Martin, Liev Schrieber, and Jonathan Rhys Meyer, showed us how he manages to keep such an elite clientele.
His high energy runway show included tailored pants, tailored blazers, the return of the baggy crotch, and the perfect shade of light blue that would make any man look dapper. While yesterdays NYFW: Men's offerings were very eclectic it proves that American menswear certainly is not a one note market. The American men's wear market is just as diverse and varied as its European counterparts.