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Denim trends for spring/summer 2023

By Julia Garel

Oct 31, 2022


Credits from left to right: Miaou, JW Anderson, , A.W.A.K.E. via Catwalk Pictures

Dominated by the 90's and 2YK trends, the denim wardrobe for spring/summer 2023 has not lost its variety, with looks that spread over a wide range of pieces and styles. From cowboy chaps to modern grunge, here are the trends that will dominate the upcoming summer season.

Modern grunge

Credits from left to right: JW Anderson, Stella McCartney via CatwalkPictures, Bottega Veneta

For Bottega Veneta's SS23 show, artistic director Matthieu Blazy reworked the archetypal everyday look in a luxurious leather iteration. One of the silhouettes on show spotlighted the grunge trend of the moment: the checked shirt and loose jeans ensemble worn by star model Kate Moss. This casual combo is a reference to the style of Kurt Cobain, leader of the band Nirvana and icon of the 1990’s grunge movement.

Like this key look for the season, the codes of grunge – jeans with holes, distressed edges, a chain belt and a loose fit – have conquered the denim wardrobes of many brands, from Stella McCartney to Diesel, and passing by JW Anderson.

Soft denim

Credits from left to right: Stefan Cooke via CatwalkPictures, Christian Wijnants, A.W.A.K.E. mode via CatwalkPictures

After several seasons dominated by jogging suits, denim is taking its revenge by moving away from the rigid fabrics of workwear to embrace the codes of loungewear. The softness of the material and the cotton-like feel are worn nonchalantly and reveal the softness and comfort of denim.

Post-apocalyptic denim

Credits from left to right: Diesel, Balenciaga via CatwalkPictures, MM6 Maison Margiela

With its mud show, the Balenciaga fashion house may have caused a stir at Paris Fashion Week, but its post-apocalyptic looks were not the only ones of their kind to grace the spring/summer 2023 fashion month. Here, the trend takes the grunge aesthetic a step further by imagining looks that have seemingly passed through the battlefield. Denim materials with holes, rips, tears, stains and ratty jeans reigned supreme on the catwalks of designer brands and established names alike.

90's baggy cut

Credits from left to right: Meryll Rogge (by Vadim Kovriga) JW Anderson / Craig Green (by Sidore Montag-Gorunway.com)

The 1990s dominated the spring/summer 2023 wardrobe and with it came the emblematic piece of the decade: the baggy jeans. The 2023 version has a more or less loose cut depending on the brand, is worn without distinction of gender and imposes a low waistline from which the underwear protrudes, which has either been sewn directly or not to the jeans.

Long skirt

Credits from left to right: Altuzarra via CatwalkPictures, Burberry via CatwalkPictures, Ganni

Another strong piece from the 90s (but initially from the 1970s) was the long skirt. The straight or trapeze cut was seen in a wide range of colours, from high-waist to low-waist. As a basic for the SS23 season, it was included on the catwalks of a wide variety of brands, from Ganni and Burberry to Givenchy, Y/Project and Tibi.

Denim lingerie

Credits from left to right: Miaou, Ksenia Schnaider, Givenchy

In contrast to the "no bra" movement, the trend of exposed lingerie, which was initiated several seasons ago by model Julia Fox and her sexy all-denim looks, stood out. Summer 2023 continued to explore this uninhibited relationship with the body through a wide range of bras and brassieres to be worn as tops. The denim sector played its card here by deploying a varied range of shapes and styles.

Double denim

Credits from left to right: Botter, Bianca Saunders, Ganni

Another trend driven by model Julia Fox in 2022, and is set to continue into the summer of 2023, is the full denim look, or double denim. The jeans and jacket combo is still in fashion and is playing its part in 90's or Y2K-inspired versions.

Utility denim

Credit: Act n°1 Catwalk Pictures, Givenchy, Private Policy via CatwalkPictures

Cargo trousers are one of the key trends for summer 2023, with denim having given rise to a variation of the utility style. This modernised iteration can be worn as jeans, jackets, shorts or skirts.

Cowboy chaps

Credits from left to right: Thom Browne, Casablanca via CatwalkPictures, Stella McCartney via CatwalkPictures

Denim is returning to its origin, that of cowboys of the Far West and American ranches, with the restoration of the chaps. This equestrian accessory covers and protects the legs from hip to ankle and has been reappropriated by queer culture over recent decades. For SS23, chaps bring a Western feel and a touch of sexy to the summer wardrobe. They can be worn in their original state or in a style inspired by their V-shaped silhouette with a play on contrasting materials.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.

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