Dior Homme SS27: How Jonathan Anderson is redefining masculine refinement

Deconstructed suits and sequin details: Jonathan Anderson took to the runway in Paris on Wednesday with his third menswear collection for Dior, championing elegance in a show brought forward several hours due to the heatwave.

To avoid the intense heat in the capital, the French house's show, originally scheduled for 2:30pm, took place at around 9am inside and in the gardens of the Nissim de Camondo Museum.

In front of the guests, all equipped with fans provided by the organisers, the models walked in checked, plain or almost transparent suits, which were at times very fluid and light. Almost deconstructed and sometimes even oversized, many were paired with deliberately loosened ties, open shirts or worn with nothing underneath.

“This collection revolves around the refinement of the male character and how he connects with the feminine,” Jonathan Anderson explained to the press after the show. He enlisted British artist Fred Again to create the music.

Amidst a palette of sober tones, with the exception of a few touches of pink, certain outfits stood out: sequined trousers or Bermuda shorts in gold or silver; sequin waistcoats; a sequined orange cable-knit jumper; a large golden tote bag; and satin bow ties and pearl flower brooches.

“All the shoes have a slight patina; they are made of velvet, embroidered, in brushed wild silk, or embroidered over again. They are all hand-studded,” added the Northern Irish designer, who is considered one of fashion's prodigies.

On his social media and in his show invitation, Anderson had alluded to the very festive theme of his collection, featuring a black disco ball, pearl flowers and a sequined carnival mask.

Numerous celebrities attended the show, including French actor Louis Garrel, South Korean singer Jimin of BTS, who is a house ambassador, and French actress Nadia Melliti, winner of the Best Actress award at Cannes in 2025.

Belgian designer Meryll Rogge, artistic director of Marni, is also expected on Wednesday to present the first menswear collection for her eponymous brand, established in 2020.

Parisian designer Jeanne Friot will be among the last shows of the day. As a lesbian and queer creator, she offers eco-responsible, non-gendered and activist fashion.

Until Sunday, some 70 brands will unveil their new menswear collections for spring/summer 2027.