At Texworld’s 3-day trend event last week, Doneger’s Creative Director, Kai Chow, delivered an exclusive look at trends for Fall/Winter 22/23. FashionUnited summarizes his presentation which was divided into 4 key stories to address the complexities of today’s environment and evoke the emotional experiences of the modern consumer, global shifts and their influence on fabrics, color and silhouette.
Felt and melton, heather knits, stretch flannel and bouclé tweeds are a go for both indoor and out. Worsted wool suiting in oversized layers with exaggerated collars appear. Lacy knits and mohair or cashmere enlivened with a touch of lurex in colors of icy mauve, and blue grey. Minimal tones are plentiful with pigment dyes, patterns of snowflakes, brush strokes and marble as well as conversational prints. Metallic coatings and minimalist hardware add to the natural rawness of this story.
The serenity of country living and taking comfort in the small things are the focus of this story. Dark vegetable tones, brushed textiles, nature-inspired tapestries and needlepoint jacquards, appliqués and embroideries of leaves and foliage evoke the calm of a rural retreat. Fair Isle cardigans and sweaters, blanket shapes will lead the charge as functionalism means multiple layers, and prominent details include drawstrings and hoods. Handkerchief plaid, mini tattersall checks, Donegal tweeds, moleskin, and performative additions such as ripstop, as well as yarn-dyed fabrics also speak to the humble and earthen. Homely and vintage florals and wallpaper prints will feature in maxi dresses and tiered skirts. Ombré sweaters and patchwork suede complete the story.
Kitsch is the new cool, weird the new wonderful. A childlike approach is key to styling this story’s boiled wools, argyles, bright bomber jackets, jumpsuits and work shirts. In this new cyberworld, mix gilt and shine for day, fur with military, retro geometrics with logos, animal patterns and paisley. Layer structural tailoring over fashion sportswear such as bold overcoats over the ubiquitous sweatpants, often featuring exaggerated collars and shoulders, or go completely monochromatic with different fabrications. Other textiles and treatments to throw into to this statement-making aesthetic: nylon, sateen, plush knits, stretch lurex, illustration style graphics, preppy and varsity motifs. More is more.
Technology now transcends the dimensions of our imagination and the future of sci-fi dreams is here. Fabrics are weightless in this new space age. Quilted and padded nylon in Gen Z colorations, precious brushed knits, effortlessly fluffy bubblegum furs, terrycloth and fleece, ultra fine knits and sheer organza are employed even for casual sportswear shapes. Influences from gaming and comics lead to an interest in the artificial and industrial. Plastic and 3D printing continue to intrigue, along with non-wovens and latex, high-tech performance materials, 4-way stretch jersey, tech body armor with seamless finishing. Decoration comes via iridescent shine, crystalized or hexagonal prints, and foil accents.
All images provided by Doneger and Texworld
Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry