Italian fashion master Giorgio Armani, 88, unveiled a men's collection on Monday celebrating the elegance of yesteryear, in a parade full of emotions that revived the splendor of the old Milan Palace and its inner courtyards.
The models strolled nonchalantly through the intimate setting of the historic headquarters in via Borgonuovo, far from the frenzy of the mode-show, on the fourth day of Men's Fashion Week in Milan which takes place Tuesday. What is the message of this fall-winter 2023-2024 collection? "Calm and serenity", confided to AFP the veteran of Italian fashion, always dyed tanned, white hair and blue eyes.
The silhouette of the Armani man is sophisticated, but flexible, the cuts are refined and the materials noble and fluid, such as cashmere, alpaca, velvet or curly wool.
"I like to think of the Milan of old palaces, atriums, gardens that we can glimpse, I liked to bring back this serenity" to breathe it into the new collection, explained Giorgio Armani to the press after the show. If the parade takes place in an imaginary way in the streets of old Milan, the colors of the fabrics are borrowed from nature: gray, beige, greige and green dominate, with touches of ruby red.
Classic velvet cardigans or jackets, matched with shirts or sweaters of the same tone, are worn over loose but refined trousers which promote freedom of movement.
Strict double-breasted jackets, tailor-made for meetings business, but with slightly puffy ties, suits classics with incorporated hoods ... the master grants himself small notes staggered.
"The rigid whole does not work, you always need a side of transgression, a little of relaxation", estimated Giorgio Armani. And always with "the will of rethinking the classic in modern terms". In this playful spirit, he designed a long faux fur coat from tiger, not recommended for important work appointments, he ironic.
But the men imagined by Giorgio Armani also come out of their sumptuous mansions in sportswear, colorful down jackets and pants quilted, while keeping a refined look.
Then, to haunting music by Italian composer Ludovico Einaudi, Armani features five model couples in evening wear scintillating, who embrace and kiss each other before going to the ball. Closing the parade in this way, "it's a precise choice because we let's talk about a man and a woman who love each other", comments the creator. According to him, it is an invitation to "show more gentleness in the relationships".(AFP)