Gothic galore and grecian classics: 7 Defining trends at London Fashion Week AW26

London Fashion Week’s AW26 season has come to an end, and with it has an edition marked by ambiguity, chaos and nostalgic references. While some runways were seemingly shaped by pop culture discourse, others stayed firmly within quintessential classics. Here are some of the defining trends for this edition.

Gothic galore and Wuthering Heights

The abundant presence of corsets and lacing on the runway aptly followed the release of Emerald Fennell’s “Wuthering Heights”, a modernised retelling of the famed gothic novel that has dictated pop culture discourse over the past month. Designers, seemingly, subconsciously incorporated such themes into their collections, many exhibiting contemporary iterations of costume synonymous with the 1800s.

A gown by Simone Rocha even went so far as to unintentionally depict a particular scene from the new film – the ribboned braids of Catherine Earnshaw, played by Margot Robbie, appear in an exaggerated corset dress.

Elsewhere, gothic detailing was explored in varying techniques. Dramatic pointed collars were a staple of Paul Costelloe’s collection, while Argo Studio’s referenced folklore and traditional crafts, albeit with a sharper edge.

Some designers reverberated trends from even further afield. The ruff, a prominent featherlike collar worn round the neck in the mid-16th century, received a modern day update, appearing as a distinguishing detail, as seen throughout Keburia’s AW26 line, or in more subtle forms, such as Dreaming Eli’s lacy design.

Haphazard layering

For this season, designers appeared to challenge the conventional forms of everyday silhouettes by bending the rules of layering. Classic and familiar garments went without meaning as they were altered and refashioned to almost take on new purposes.

At Fashion East, these layers almost became unrecognisable, appearing haphazardly over the models. Toga, on the other hand, formed surprising silhouettes using rearranged cardigans and button-ups to create waist-hugging shapes. Alternatively, Bora Aksu opted to present as many items in one look, often bringing together multiple blouses, dramatic veils and flouncy skirts.

Sheepish

A material that stood out this season was that of what looked to be raw wool or fur. Designers incorporated the texture mostly as an added accessory, with hats, scarves and gloves adorned in the shaggy material, typically styled alongside sleeker and casual silhouettes. When used in jackets, forms were much bulkier, as seen at Toga, where fluffy coats were layered on one another and took on disorientated shapes.

Ambiguous tailoring

Androgynous tailoring entered a new era for this LFW. Some designers stuck to classic shapes in the blazers themselves, but brought a twist in shirting. Akin to trends touched on earlier, gothic elements remained present in high-neck blouses and mediaeval ruffles. In other collections, blousing became more exaggerated, either found in overemphasised collars or elongated sleeving, adding flair to traditional looks.

Grecian classics

The presence of sleek, silky gowns pointed at the fervour for classic eveningwear, with simple forms retaining a modern elegance. Designers elevated the looks by either adding in subtle accessories, like a scarf or belt, or incorporating elusive detailing to bring more texture into their floor-sweeping pieces.

Power dressing

Suiting in womenswear held a sense of power for this season, with designers taking cues from eras past to inform prominent shapes and unique cuts. Tolu Coker stood out in this respect, showing a collection rife in forceful suits, each taking on memorable colours, from cobalt blue to lime green. Paul Costelloe, meanwhile, explored many forms of suiting throughout almost the entirety of his line, each retaining strong shoulders and structured lines.

Military jackets

A prevalent silhouette was that of the military jacket – specifically those of the Napoleonic variety. The look appeared as a maximalist, theatrical addition in a number of lines, feeding a sense of nostalgia while also introducing the historical garment to a new Gen Z audience.