Fresh, glamorous and ladylike without a stiletto in sight -- Zac Posen wowed the New York fashion pack and close friend Uma Thurman late Monday with staggeringly inventive confections for spring.
The New York designer, who launched his eponymous collection in 2001 aged just 21 and stars in "Project Runway," proved his talent in spades with brocade and a modern-take on the crinoline look with structured, barely-there gauze gowns with beautiful embellishment.
The cheers and applause erupted in the packed Soho loft even before the show reached the customary final walk through, and turned deafening when Posen finally strode out. T he delight was in the craftsmanship that gave the models structured, yet transparent skirts without a single crinoline that made them look as though they were floating down the runway.
Posen keeps the balance and finds the "right kind of edge" for Spring/Summer 2-17
Eschewing the ubiquitous sky-high heels, Posen's models instead wore flat gladiator sandals, the leather matching the colors of their ensembles, but with vermillion red soles. "I'm interested in women with mobility so for a fashion show with such feminine, pretty clothing -- keep the balance and find the right kind of edge," Posen explained backstage to AFP.
"Obviously the collection can always be elevated in a heel but I think it adds a balance to the sophistication and femininity." He reimagined the leather jacket in bonded cotton, sent down colorful jacquard micro-shorts, pants and skirts in delicate yellows and blues, as well as bold pinks, orange and purple, feminine floral prints.
His cocktail and evening dresses were a vision -- almost transparent nude or white underlay decorated with mesh embroidery and glass beads. "My life-long pursuit has been structure and craftsmanship and so each season it's become a different evolution of that so all the shapes and form are held through the steaming and fabrication," he said.
Backstage he was embraced by a beaming Thurman, who joined the throng of friends and well wishers congratulating him. Thurman, along with Michelle Obama and Gwyneth Paltrow are some of the stars he dresses. "She's one of my best friends so it's quite wonderful to have her here," he said of Thurman.
Another highlight of New York Fashion Week Day Five was Phillip Lim. The designer delved into nostalgia in reaction to what was "happening today," he said, by researching Victorian bathing suits and seeking inspiration in the Nashville music scene of the 1950-60s. "To me it's how do you maintain a certain type of dignity," he told AFP. "But also remind people that the basic essentials are love and human emotions and being grateful and having dignity and respect." (AFP)
Photo: Zac Posen, SS17, Facebook