Item of the week: the oversized shirt

What it is:

The oversized shirt, an airy silhouette with an abundance of styling possibilities, has become a staple wardrobe addition for all genders. What was once a tailored piece most commonly associated with formalwear and suits, has transformed into a more slouchy form for those who are looking to adopt a casual version of the style. While the oversized button-down doesn’t necessarily have a specific history (oversized clothing in general only became prevalent in the 1920s), it has been at the forefront of iconic looks in pop culture for a long time. From Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's to Angelina Jolie in Mr and Mrs Smith to Julia Roberts in Pretty Women, the slouchy style has had quite an impact in Hollywood film. However, while it was often portrayed to ooze a bit of sex appeal, the oversized shirt was also presented as a tool of power for women. Nowadays, the style is less of a status-wear piece and more one of the drivers behind genderless clothing, adopted by many different style sectors, from streetwear to high-end designer.

Why you’ll want it:

With a number of current trends leaning towards a more comfort-driven fashion approach, the oversized shirt fits well into these new consumer lifestyle movements. Many took the pandemic as a sign to convert to a more casual wardrobe direction and would, therefore, welcome a loose-fitted addition. Its fit also enables it to be a seasonless garment, consequently making it a great investment purchase for shoppers who are looking for an item that can stick with them year-round. Its this versatility that sets it apart from the typical button-down, granting it the ability to attract many different market segments, from youthful shoppers to business-casual buyers to those simply looking for a comfortable yet stylish top alternative. The varying styles and fits ensure that for just about any buyer, there is an oversized shirt option that works with the message, aesthetic and target group of the retailer.

Where we’ve seen it:

If there was any designer that fully dominated this trend it was Raf Simons, who, for his SS22 runway, presented an array of oversized, long-line shirts, bringing the typically formal design into a new unconventional domain. The genderless button-downs consisted of exaggerated proportions, with inflated cuffs and collars sitting alongside elongated torsos and sleeves. In its return to the runway, Salvatore Ferragamo also adopted the popular silhouette, this time opting for both formal and relaxed forms. A drop shoulder look, reminiscent of a bowling shirt cut, was decorated with a bold floral print, while a more formal button-down exhibited an alternative shape due to a layered, sleeveless knit. Valentino was another to explore the oversized shirt in its Rendez-Vous collection, which aimed to convey a streetwear proposal contrasting the label’s typical direction. Shirts often took on an almost dress-like form, sitting just above the knees, in a seemingly tailored yet untailored appearance. Statement-making prints drew influences from vintage design aesthetics, bringing to life each shirt either as stand-alone items or in a daring co-ord.

How to style it:

Depending on the season, the oversized shirt presents many different styling opportunities for the wearer. In summer, the item can act as both a beach cover-up or a dressy nightwear piece. For warmer weather, wear the shirt open and layer it with swimwear or, for a daily look, a pair of denim shorts and a colourful vest. In the colder months, sport the style with a kitted turtleneck underneath and some jeans or casual untailored trousers for a simple yet stylish day look. The shape can work either partly tucked in or hanging completely loose. An evening outfit can consist of an above-the-knee, form-fitting skirt and strappy heels, elevating the shirt and giving it a silhouette that is more dress-like. However, if the wearer is looking for something closer to a business-casual fit, look towards pairing the oversized shirt with tailored trousers that still also hold a casual essence - either loose-fitting or with a relaxed pattern.

The oversized shirt, complete with its past iconic connotations and contemporary genderbending form, is a simple item that still holds a lot of value as an investment piece for consumers, thanks in part to its versatility. As a resourceful wardrobe addition, the shirt is capable of appealing to a wide customer base, with unlimited design options that allow it to make a mark in almost any fashion sector.