Item of the week: the tailored suit

What it is:

Suits for spring/summer 2023 came in structured shapes and fitted silhouettes, bringing high quality tailoring to the forefront of design. While some cuts and fits were fine tuned to models, others were heavily structured into oversized designs, albeit still with sleek tailored elements. Heavy embellishments were also prominent for this two piece trend, as brands opted for outlandish features, like oversized paper planes or extruding pearls. This reigned true for both menswear and womenswear, each of which saw similar techniques applied to collections, blurring the lines between the two.

Why you’ll want it:

Suits are a staple to both men and women’s wardrobes and this season’s iterations allow for them to also cross over categories, from formalwear to casualwear. This evolution is, in part, down to the transformation of office wear in the aftermath of the pandemic and work-from-home restrictions. The move has seen many shoppers turn to less formal wardrobe options even as offices made the decision to open their doors again, resulting in casual suit forms taking hold. This can be seen in the array of subtle tailoring and loose fits that led the way on SS23 runways, reflecting the new attitude shift.

Where we’ve seen it:

Tailored suits had a place in both menswear and womenswear runways for the SS23 season, in styles that ranged in both cut, colour and embellishments. Both categories had one element in common; pastels. Light hues were used by the likes of Jil Sander, Canali and Paul Smith, each of which favoured various pastel colourings for similarly form-fitting silhouettes. In menswear, Celine Homme and Prada offered up slim-fit trousers, while the likes of Peter Do and Louis Vuitton displayed risqué cuts and bold embellishments. Meanwhile, in womenswear, Ermanno Scervino, Lanvin and Stella McCartney experimented with relaxed tailoring and oversized shapes.

How to style it:

Tailored suits have been ‘tailored’ to work together, with most brands offering up matching blazers and trousers, or skirts, that seamlessly match one another. The trick comes with how to layer the two pieces with other items, for which there are unlimited options. Collared blouses and shirts are a typical choice when looking for a matching garment for suits, and can be dressed down by opting for looser materials, like satin. Layer these pieces using sleeveless v-neck sweaters or a contrasting waistcoat, in keeping with the office-inspired attire. Add heeled boots or trainers, depending on the formality of an occasion.

Tailored suits took the front stage for SS23 collections, through which designers experimented and played with silhouettes, cuts and embellished details. This has been translated by brands into sleek two piece looks that give shoppers both a casual and formal option for almost any occasion.