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Item of the week: the tweed set

By Rachel Douglass

Sep 7, 2022


(From left) Image: Guess, Karl Lagerfeld, Desigual

What it is:

Tweed, as a material, has been created in Scotland since the early 18th century and initially refers to a subtly patterned material made from merino sheep wool. It can be woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure, resulting in various outcomes in the pattern itself. One of its most notable occurrences in fashion history was its adoption by Coco Chanel, who, in 1924, enlisted a Scottish factory to produce tweed fabrics for a wide range of Chanel clothing, making it one of the house’s signature styles. As tweed’s popularity grew, brands began adopting the tweed look into their own collections, with many also translating it into more affordable designs or mirroring the look of the material through cheaper or animal-free fabrics.

Image: Na-kd

Why you’ll want it:

For the upcoming season, tweed two-piece sets have seen a major modern update as brands attempt to introduce the classic style to younger shoppers. This has resulted in tweed sets merging with current lifestyle and clothing trends favoured by this consumer group, such as the adoption of 90s and 00s era looks. Additionally, the use of sets also falls in line with the casual workwear trend, which has come about following the loosening of pandemic restrictions earlier this year and the slow migration back into an office environment. Tweed can also be found in both men’s and women’s clothing, either in suits, sometimes paired with a skirt, or other two-piece forms, such as a t-shirt and shorts, allowing for a lot of choice.

Image: United Colors of Benetton

Where we’ve seen it:

Tweed, or tweed-inspired looks, were particularly colourful for the womenswear AW22 season. Versace was one of the main drivers of the trend, offering up oversized blazers, mini skirts and dresses in bold tweed materials. A similar aesthetic was adopted by Oscar de la Renta for the brand’s pre-fall collection, which mostly used an oversized gingham pattern for its two pieces. Halpern also displayed brightly coloured sets, instead in blocked neon hues, however Coperni opted more for natural grey tones. Meanwhile, Chanel once again stuck to its tweed roots sending a wide array of its signature designs down the runway, each updated in various pastels and clean cut silhouettes.

Image: YAS

How to style it:

When wearing the pieces together, opt to layer contrasting materials and colours under sets so that they stand out on their own. This can be a satin-like button-up shirt, to elevate the style, or a basic tee, when looking for more casual attire. While two pieces are often meant to be paired together, there is the option to use them separately. A tweed jacket, for example, can also work with jeans or another style of tailored bottoms, while a tweed skirt can be worn together with a jacket or blouse in a contrasting colour or material.

Image: Polo Ralph Lauren

The tweed set is a classic and modern twists on the design have seen it transform into a look that can work for a younger shopper group. The material itself can make it either a statement piece for a fashion-forward consumer or a set perfect for the workday.

Image: Yvette Libby N'guyen Paris

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Item of the Week