Jeanne Friot show: A manifesto for LGBT+ identities in fashion
Paris - "I can't imagine doing it any other way." French designer Jeanne Friot opened Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday with an energetic dance show that received a standing ovation. The show was a manifesto for fashion that is increasingly committed to defending LGBT+ identities.
"My commitment comes from my personality, from being a lesbian, a queer woman," the 30-year-old designer, known for her eco-responsible and gender-neutral fashion, told AFP.
Her new mixed autumn/winter collection, titled 'Awake', was unveiled on the stage of the Théâtre du Rond-Point in Paris. It is the latest illustration of her commitment, both in substance and in form.
Conceived as a "performance" rather than a catwalk show, this new presentation involved twenty-three dancers from the Ballet de Lorraine, directed by choreographer Maud Le Pladec.
"Dance is a prominent form of resistance in our queer communities," recalled Friot.
Revolution
For eight minutes, dancers and models unveiled a series of the designer's signature silhouettes to an upbeat soundtrack. The line-up included personalities such as journalist Daphné Bürki and drag queen Mami Watta.
A palette dominated by red, black and purple featured a succession of feathered trousers; a corset constructed from red leather belts; a fully sequin-embroidered skirt suit; leather jackets with sculpted shoulders and kilt-style mini-skirts.
Known for her slogan T-shirts, the designer also offered two new styles. One was emblazoned with "It's never too late to fight against fascism" and the other with "Revolution" featuring a reversed "love".
In the same activist spirit, two brides—one in a black suit, the other in white—kissed as dancers twirled around them.
This debut show concluded to public acclaim. It was a reassurance for the designer who, an hour before the show, laughingly confessed backstage to feeling "a bit on the edge of a cliff," citing "a lot of pressure." "I hope this will kick off Fashion Week with a lot of energy and a boost," she said. Mission accomplished.
Hostile environment
After two years in the "presentation" category, Friot showed for the first time on the official calendar, marking "the culmination of six years of work."
A graduate of the Duperré school and then the Institut Français de la Mode, the Parisian designer has worked at A.P.C., Maison Kitsuné, Wanda Nylon and the Balenciaga studio. She says she realised early on that "things were missing" in the industry.
Eco-responsibility, local production and the questioning of gender norms were all absent. There was also a lack of female and lesbian role models in positions of power. "I couldn't find any places in fashion where there was strong, unapologetic activism," she recalled.
She launched her brand in 2020, in the midst of Covid-19, staying true to her principles. Each piece is produced in France using upcycling and deadstock fabrics from fashion houses. Her work eventually caught the eye of celebrities like Madonna and Katy Perry, who have worn her now-famous belt dresses.
On July 26, 2024, her silver horsewoman costume for the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympic Games gained worldwide attention. "It definitely boosted the brand's economy," the designer acknowledged.
This was welcome visibility for a brand that is still developing, currently employing seven to eight people. "As an independent, it's always difficult to keep going, to hire and even to survive in a rather hostile environment," she summarised.
The label of an activist designer remains "difficult" to bear. "If there are so few, it's for a good reason," she added. She asserts that embracing her values closes some doors but opens others. "There are people who come specifically for the values I stand for," the designer noted. "It's a difficult stance to maintain, but I think it's necessary."
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