Created as a love letter to London’s idiosyncratic soul, British design house Erdem presented its SS22 collection with an array of sculpted pieces, intricately embellished dresses and genderbending tailoring.
Inspired by 20th Century poet Edith Sitwell and English aristocrat Ottoline Morrell, the line aimed to reflect the personalities and style of these elegant muses through flamboyant yet glamorous designs. “It is their passionate individualism that we celebrate here today,” the brand said about the ladies, in a release. “Erdem is - and has always been - about empowering individual expression.”
The collection fused menswear and womenswear, moulding feminine yet occasionally boyish pieces that offered a diverse assortment of both formal and casual styles. Two piece suits ran alongside day-to-night dresses, drawing a broad offering to spectators of the show.
Experimental textiles were among the highlights of the collection. Waxed cottons and raw, crushed linens sat alongside lace motifs, while other pieces held enlarged floral patterns in bolder designs. Structural two pieces and dresses featured contrasting monochromatic patterns that stood out as more modern graphics next to the romantic bohemia dresses.
Some items displayed direct references to that of Sitwell and Morrell, such as oversized, crushed satin hats reminiscent of what Morrell was often seen bearing. Structured trench coats, on the other hand, aimed to capture Sitwell’s signature style, with pearl button details and oversized jewellery further capturing her character.
Next to the more relaxed styles, a range of evening looks were also present. Floor-length gowns adorned with bright sequins and an embroidered a-line dress brought viewers event-worthy pieces. Hand-sewn beading was highly evident in the selection of linen dresses and pencil skirts, generating a more glamorous appearance for even the simpler styles.
Lace was the real frontrunner in this collection. Bohemian broderie anglaise dresses and suits highlighted the romanticism the line tried to display, complete with ribbons and botanical prints that further emphasised the 20th Century essence the brand was inspired by.