For the SS23 menswear season the ‘preppy’ look once again received a new twist: less Ivy League, more ‘sport & street’. Colors ran the gamut, from pale pastels at Rhude, and neons at MSGM to burgundy and black at Dries Van Noten. Key items and accents included cable knit sweaters, bermuda shorts and collegiate lettering. As with the women’s collections last season, ties made a comeback. Here are the ten best looks from Paris and Milan.
During Paris Fashion Week, Alexandre Mattiussi showed a mash-up of American prepster style and Parisian cool. For example, look 17 consisted of a classic navy and white striped ringer tee and short white shorts under a windcheater with flap pockets. A baseball hat, socks and sandals completed the look.
For his second collection for Kenzo, shown in Paris, Nigo said he’d used the concept of a ‘passing out ceremony,’ inspired by one of Kenzo Takada’s 1980’s shows which was based on the idea of a school’s sports day. For look 22 he showed a two-button seersucker blazer in green blue and yellow stripes, yellow and red striped Bermudas, marled knit odd socks and fringed white loafers.
Massimo Giorgetti showed the MSGN collection in Milan. Look 11 was a rugby shirt in broad hot pink and black stripes embellished with a MSGN brand crest. It was worn over a blue and white striped shirt and shorts, black socks and MSGM branded sneakers.
Shown during Paris Fashion Week, the runway show was filled with iconic Thom Browne looks; including tweed coats, blazers, pants and long pleated skirts. Look 21, was multi-layered with a tremendous amount of design detail; a pastel tweed bouclé jacket with a red plaid lining and matching long shorts, white collared pink shirt and tie. It was accessorized by red and white boucle loafers and ankle socks.
Dries Van Noten
Showing in Paris, Dries Van Noten’s SS23 collection was an eclectic mix of different styles: pinstripe tailoring with pink body-con corsets, Western shirts and boots, motocross looks, pajama looks and then a group of preppy styles. For look 24 Van Noten showed a deep vee neck sweater with a ribbed trim in burgundy and navy with burgundy pleat front pants.
Junya Watanabe’s Paris show highlighted American pop art with quotes and artwork by Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Jean Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. For look 4, he showed a utilitarian jacket with an orange collar and a Campbell’s soup can label, over khaki pants. Accessories included a baseball cap in orange and burgundy and thick-soled white sneakers.
Showing in Paris, Rhuigi Villaseñor’s Look 6 consisted of dusty pink skinny jeans with a red and white striped shirt and a pink and white pullover accessorized with white tassel loafers.
As part of Milan Fashion Week, this was Jeremy Scott’s first all-menswear show since joining Moschino. Look 18 was an oversized blue and white striped shirt with yellow streaks over matching shorts. It was accessorized with a tie, a black boater and motorbike boots.
Showing in Paris and designed by Véronique Nichanian, the collection for Hermés included softly shaped separates in pale colors. Look 2’s outfit was a breezy pale pink collarless shirt and khaki shorts under a white blouson jacket accessorized with white open-toe sandals.
Paul & Joe
This was the second Paul & Joe men’s collection designed by Adrien Albou. For look 1, he showed a turquoise cotton knit cardigan with floral garland trim over a striped shirt and khaki shorts embellished with florets. The outfit was accessorized with blue socks and black penny loafers.