Michael Kors celebrates 45th anniversary with intrinsically New York collection

Michael Kors has long been a cornerstone of New York’s fashion scene and subsequently the city’s fashion week, a heritage that this year the designer honoured in a 45th anniversary celebration for his namesake brand.

During NYFW AW26, Kors aptly took on the theme ‘New York Chic’ for his show, which was presented as a runway at The Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center. The collection intended to ring in a reinvention of wardrobe classics, evident in softened tailoring and modernised twists on tweed and flannel materials.

In a statement, Kors said: “When I think about New York, I think about reinvention and things that can be reimagined. This is the grittiest, toughest place in the world but it can also be the most glamorous, magical place in the world, and that juxtaposition is what makes people interesting, places interesting, and fashion interesting. This collection is about resilience and strength. I hope what I design makes people feel stronger, because we all need beauty and strength.”

The AW26 line is the first to be presented following the announcement of a strategic pivot for Michael Kors, which is undergoing somewhat of a transformation as its parent company, Capri Holdings, enters a new phase. After offloading Versace, Capri’s CEO John Idol told investors that the group was addressing recent misguided efforts to reinvent the Michael Kors, that had led it to drift from its core identity and resultantly confused its consumer base.

Idol revealed that the group has instead concocted a plan to revive the label’s DNA through “modern glamour” and more accessible aspiration, reinstating its “jet-set” roots and storytelling narratives. Next to a shift in retail strategy, Kors is putting an emphasis on ready-to-wear and revising the brand’s pricing architecture that will reflect this revised aesthetic.

The latest collection seems to be ushering in this renewed approach. Its colour palette, for example, continued to spotlight Kors’ signature neutral colour range, helmed by a staple camel hue, yet accentuated the selection through powerful shades of ruby, raspberry and wine. Accessories, or more specifically footwear, emphasised the designer’s understanding of a customer-on-the-go, while handbags remained stylishly practical.

In the way of garments, designs intended to introduce a “new way to dress for evening”, balancing “grit and glamour”, as seen in trousers styled with dramatic capes, oversized shirting with extravagant skirts, and cocktail gowns with trains that doubled as wraps.