Giorgio Armani opened his show to the soundtrack of Downton Abbey, who's era resonated with his vision for the season. The collection was something of a tribute to Milanese masculinity, but the high waisted drop crotch trousers, four button suits and frock coats felt like a nod to the English aristocracy of yore. Accessories included dark sunglasses, crocodile skin bags and slouchy scarves.
Ermano Scervino made stripes and checks the backbone of its AW15 collection, with outerwear as the most prominent feature. Overcoats, duffles and double-breased peacoats came in plenty of versions and fabrications, off-set by striped-roll necks and bright suede monkshoes. The palette of grey prints was offset with naval blue and red stripes and flashes of yellow. A furry peacoat was seen in three looks in aubergine, beige and navy, and must be an item they are pushing for their commercial sales.
Roberto Cavalli followed Gucci's rockstar inspiration, but his muse was less intellectual hippy and more urban cowboy. Models sported Elvis style quiffs and had srips of fabric printed with the words ‘E…empathy’ and ‘No... Bounds’ pinned to their jackets and shirts. Elsewhere check shirting and baroque knits were paired with slim fit leather trousers and fur coats. Accessories included gold studs on a leather jacket and reptile pockets on a parka, while footwear consisted of solid pointed black boots.
Brioni is a stalwart of Italian menswear fashion and for 70 years the company has consistently delivered impeccable tailoring and craftsmanship. Duffel coats, blousons, and jackets came in faded checks, which Brioni's creative director Brendan Mullane said were both horse-blanket inspired and reminiscent of Brioni pieces that were featured on a 1970s cover of L'Uomo Vogue. Master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his business partner Gaetano Savini opened their first suit shop in Rome's Via Barberini at the end of World War II and held its first fashion show was held in 1952 at the Pitti Palace, Florence.