Paris Haute Couture fashion week Autumn/Winter 2017, if anything signified a shift in the fashion industry. As seasons continue to blur, this edition saw a host of ready-to-wear designers invited to show on schedule, in addition to menswear and womenswear being presented side by side, raising the question - is this the start of a fashion revolution?
In the penultimate fashion week of the summer, with only New York Men’s to follow next week from July 10 to 13, US designers, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte have been added to the Paris Couture schedule.
Paris Couture Fashion Week closed Thursday morning with ‘Haute Joaillerie’, a devoted day which was added to this year's schedule to accommodate for designers including Chaumet and Louis Vuitton, displaying their high jewelry collections.
Following an eventful five days in Paris, FashionUnited looks back at the highlights of the week.
Dior goes on safari for its 70th anniversary
Christian Dior, the highly anticipated Autumn/Winter 2017 show which coincided with the French fashion house’s 70th anniversary, was held on Monday in the courtyard of the Hotel National des Invalides. Inspired by Albert Decaris archived etching of the five continents that Dior would expand to. The catwalk, designed to reflect a safari was surrounded by wooden giraffes and elephants and with the enlarged map hanging down above. Connoting a theme of travel and exploration, Chuiri’s designs comprised coats and dresses, mostly grey in colour and all belted with a thin crocodile effect belt. Paying homage to female explorers, one stand out piece was a black full length, shearing edged, aviator suit.
Iris Van Herpen continues to innovate for AW17
Iris Van Herpen’s show, also held on Monday, marked the brand’s 10th anniversary. The 16 piece collection, named Aeriform ‘examines the nature and anatomy of air and the idea of airborne materiality and lightness’ according to the designer's website, proved that Herpen is truly in her own league when it comes to couture. The innovative, yet extremely intricate collection was made up of dresses formed by moulding thin laser cut strips of metal, heat-bonded together. And if the dresses weren’t enough, the show was accompanied by 5-piece performance artists ‘Between Music‘, who were playing their music while submerged in tanks of water. The perfect accompaniment to Herpen's element inspired collection.
Lagerfeld’s homage to Paris
Karl Lagerfeld’s show for French fashion house Chanel, held on Tuesday at the Grand Palais, paid homage to Paris. Known for his lavish, over the top shows, Lagerfeld placed a giant Eiffel Tower as the centerpiece for the catwalk, with guests sitting and models walking beneath the iconic landmark.The extravagant designer described the Autumn/Winter 2017 collection as “a vision of a revived Parisian woman, it is all about cut, shapes, silhouettes." Consisting of delicate grey suits in Chanel’s signature tweed, each look was accompanied by a bowler hat aside from the famous ‘couture bride’ look. The show was concluded with the presentation of France’s highest honour, awarded to the legendary designer that is Karl Lagerfeld.
Absence of usual colour at Armani Privé for AW17
Armani Privé, Autumn/Winter 2017 couture show, held on Tuesday at the Théâtre National de Chaillot offered audiences a twist on Armani’s classic couture. Giorgio Armani, presented pastel tailored suits with scooped necklines, perhaps targeting at a new, more youthful audience. The designer, known for being able to appeal to all ages of women with his designs, also debuted classical black evening dresses, with new bold floral prints. Unusual for the designer though was the lack of colour used, with a collection theme of ‘mystery’, perhaps he is presenting a transition for the brand’s theme.
Proenza Schouler debuts at Paris Couture Fashion Week
Proenza Schouler, one of the two US-based brands invited to show as guests at this year's couture week - transitioned seamlessly into the seemingly elitist Paris couture week. While debuting a combination of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 ready-to-wear and resort collections, the two designers behind the brand - Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez clearly held their own.The collection featuring bold flower motifs on jackets and skirts flared lace trousers were paired with long cut jackets and elongated lace embroidered tops. The designers did not attempt to go full on couture but certainly looked at home in Paris. The brand said in a statement that showing in Paris would help them “to break from the traditional ready-to-wear calendar in order to pursue a business model more aligned to the realities of commerce today.”
Homepage photo catwalk: Chanel AW17, Patrick Kovarik, AFP, Photos courtesy of: Dior, AW17, Iris van Herpen Couture AW17.Catwalkpictures.com, Chanel AW17, Catwalkpictures, Giorgio Armani Prive AW17, Catwalkpictures, Proenza Schouler SS18. Catwalkpictures