Paris Fashion Week: Day 6
Mar 9, 2015
The seventies-inspired trend that is happening now is probably closest in aesthetic to Chloe, the house that founded ready-to-wear and is known for its fluid tailoring. 60 years after the house was founded, creative director Clare Waight Keller has kept to Chloe's codes, stating: “I really wanted to capture something confident, but still with a carefree spirit." She did this with floor length coats with wide lapels, trousers that were soft and languid, delicate lace and silk georgette slips. All in one suits and waistcoats were the fashion pieces, as were the patchwork, capes and brass button detailing.
Since Phoebe Philo took over the creative reigns at Celine, we have seen pared-down collections, devoid of superfluous glamour or sexuality. But this season Philo broke away from her strictness, and showed us a more carefree spirit. There were big, fluffy pom-poms on cuffs, bustiers on knitwear, otters, foxes and deer prints from children's books. There were also duvet coats with prominent buttons, that allowed for a sleeve to be pealed back. On the soundtrack Brazilian musician Caetano Veloso was singing, perhaps a nod to the Latin American spirit where of course the "blood is a little hotter."
Akris designer Albert Kriemler took hoodies, parkas, harrington jackets and utility outerwear, crafting it into understated, sophisticated luxury separates. A hint of yellow broke the hues of mostly neutral tones in beige, creams and pale greys. You could imagine the customer wearing it at her Swiss mountain retreat or in St Gallen, where the company's headquarters are based. What started with aprons in the 1950s has turned into a global force of clothes that don't need to scream for distinction. At Akris, fabrication, craftsmanship and wearability surpass trends, which is probably why it attracts clients including Nicole Kidman and Angelina Jolie.
Givenchy on Sunday celebrated 10 years with designer Ricardo Tisci at its helm. Inspired by California's Chola girl gang, for autumn winter 15 a Givenchy warrior girl sported nose rings, facial jewellery and swirling hair, courtesy of Pat McGrath and her team. The clothes were sufficiently subversive with a Catholic cross stitched into the bodice of a dress, corseted and peplumed jackets and dresses over trousers, all signature Givenchy. There was emphasis on craftsmanship and luxury, with the final pieces painstakingly embroidered with jet beads as seen on a strapless bustier dress, a bias-cut net gown and on a pair of tailcoats. With the Kardashians and Katy Perry on the front row, it was stellar showmanship all round.Images: Chloe, Givenchy, Celine, Akris AW15