Paris Men's Fashion Week: A focus on pragmatism and classic staples
Paris - Suits, functional pieces and little extravagance defined Paris Men's Fashion Week. The event, which concludes on Sunday, has championed a pragmatic and risk-averse winter season.
Following a 2025 marked by a significant reshuffle of creative directors and numerous debuts, this winter edition is more restrained. It features fewer shows and no new launches, reflecting a measured approach in both substance and form.
Matthieu Morge Zucconi, head of menswear at French newspaper Le Figaro, analysed for AFP, “It has been a rather conservative season, without any groundbreaking proposals.”
“We are in a period where we get straight to the point. This is reflected in the shows,” agreed Astrid Faguer, a fashion journalist at French business supplement Les Échos Week-End.
Specialists believe that against a backdrop of challenging current events and economic turbulence in the luxury sector, brands are seeking to reassure. Consequently, they are less inclined to take risks.
The trend for next winter, therefore, leans towards reliable staples and even nostalgia.
Suit resurgence
The suit and tie combination has emerged as a key feature on the runways.
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams presented a versatile range. This included single and double-breasted styles, various tailored fits, and even a version paired with Bermuda shorts.
At Dior, the suit channelled different eras. It evoked the 1940s with rounded shoulders and wide trousers, and the 1960s with cigarette trousers and a cropped blazer.
At Hermès, tailoring showcased luxurious materials, from flannel to crocodile. Meanwhile, Sacai playfully deconstructed classic trousers by adding ruffles, creating the illusion of layered shorts.
Juun.J presented floral and velvet versions, as well as a style featuring wide biker trousers.
Checked prints were also widely featured. They appeared on Jeanne Friot’s transparent tartan jumpsuits and Kolor’s tartan shirts.
At Dior, the iconic Bar jacket was reimagined in a houndstooth pattern. Louis Vuitton featured numerous Prince of Wales check suits. At Officine Générale, the pattern was used for a coat with an unapologetically classic design.
As expected for the season, rainwear was abundant, particularly at Balenciaga with its highly technical raincoats.
Fantasy lies elsewhere
The colour palette remained neutral, featuring black, grey, beige and brown. Brighter touches appeared, such as the purple seen at Dior, Vuitton, Issey Miyake and Etudes Studio.
For Adrien Communier, head of fashion at GQ, this sobriety primarily reflects a return to essentials. “There is a real trend of creating clothes for today that are built to last and withstand daily life,” he observed.
According to Communier, both the public and designers are no longer interested in seasonal items that are quickly discarded. Instead, they desire silhouettes that are timeless.
He believes, “It is impossible not to see a reference to the international context. I think there is something very responsive and pragmatic in relation to that.”
In this context, “fantasy is found elsewhere,” noted Astrid Faguer. She noted, “We have never seen so many hats,” referencing everything from Dior’s punk wigs and Vuitton’s leather caps to Officine Générale’s backwards berets and Rick Owens’ macramé masks.
Eyewear also made an appearance at Amiri, Dries Van Noten, Juun.J and Willy Chavarria.
Extravagance was found in the details. Masculine silhouettes were adorned with striking embellishments. These included fringed rhinestone epaulettes at Dior and tiny jewels encrusted in a grey cape-coat at Dries Van Noten.
These flashy touches enhanced the outfits without disrupting the overall balance of the silhouettes.
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