Tired of streetwear, male wardrobe designers are now betting on tailored pieces. Virgil Abloh, the benchmark designer of street style, has himself revised his copy for the autumn winter 2020/2021 season and has proposed silhouettes in suits, both for his own label, Off-White, and for the Louis Vuitton men's line. But the streetwear wardrobe does not disappear and instead opens up new avenues for tailoring, whether it be accessories or cut, its nonchalant accents popularize the three-piece suit and pinch pants.
The streetwear approach is not the only one to renew shirts and tailored jackets. From "Guccian" fantasy to a totally colourful look, FashionUnited takes examins the striking trends that are refreshing the world of men's suits.
Sand and earthy hues coloured a large part of the autumn winter 2020/21 men's shows. Olivier Rousteing, artistic director of Balmain, bet on the nuances of the Sahara and delivered a fluid collection.
Touch of madness
The zany fantasy driven by the house of Gucci extends to men's suits. From discreet stylistic punctuations to total looks, it humorously renews men's tailoring. An exercise in style taken up by Kim Jones, artistic director of Dior's men's lines, who drew inspiration from decadent English chic to sprinkle his collection with long paisley shirts, pearl gloves and zipped berets.
Forget the tennis stripes on an anthracite background, for autumn winter 2020/21, the suit is worn in monochrome, in bright, theatrical tones. The exercise in style has been notably taken up by the houses Ami Paris and Berluti.
The lexical field of streetwear is rethinking the lexical field of men's suits. Sliding details, elasticated, utilitarian, loose fit, wearing a banana bag across the chest - anything goes. Virgil Abloh said: "The suit, symbol of convention, commerce and success is about to leave its comfort zone.”
Leather and its ersatz structure gives the men's suits a nonchalant or adventurous spirit. The Berluti autumn winter 2020/21 show with its patinated leathers is an ode to the material.
Workwear pieces have long since proven their potential as timeless classics. Flap or gusset pockets, sturdy materials, boxy cuts - classics of the twist men's suits.
Main article image: Hermès AW20/21 Backstage
This article was originally written for FashionUnited.fr before being translated to English