Spotlight on day 6 of NYFW
By Kristopher Fraser
Feb 18, 2015
Day 6 of NYFW was the battle of the top designers, with Tory Burch, Naeem Khan, and Badgley Mischka fighting to see who would come out on top. It was a tough battle, but there are still two more days left of NYFW to decide who has earned their place as the most beloved collection of fall/winter 2015/2016. It made for a day filled with edgy looks, sophisticated silhouettes, and even a hint of bohemian chic. Day 6 of NYFW was not shy on the beauty, and brought plenty of fierceness to the scene.
Tory Burch, the beauty who can boast about being a billionaire now, had no room for error with this collection, as she is currently looking on trying to turn Tory Burch into a global lifestyle enterprise, potentially the likes of Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein. Whatever direction her company does end up headed in she can be sure that her dresses will be successful, because her latest collection was a slice of Moroccan inspired beauty painted onto bias-cuts and married to jacquards. While it was certainly different for Burch the audience received it well, and it was a collection that would mark the era of Tory Burch going forward as a lifestyle brand. With a billion dollar revenue to uphold she has a high mark to hit, and she may have just hit it out of the park.
Badgley Mischka created a very fabulous collection this season, that at times did seem like three collections fused into one, because they were drawing inspiration from the film “Blood and Sand,” a film about a bullfighter, his wife, and his mistress. At times there were looks that seemed to have all the elegance of a forties women, like the belted pearl white trench coat, and other looks that were sexier, like a very voluminous little black dress. The highlight to the collection would have to be the introduction of their new material: silk honeycomb gazar. The new material alone is sure to get buyers attention and keep up Badgley Mischka’s stupendous reputation for glamorous dresses.
It was all about the afros, the seventies and eighties, and perhaps a little inspiration from old school Whitney Houston that made Georgine’s collection a success. The collection included high waisted pants, bright oranges and yellows that were reminiscent of eighties music videos, and dyed fur coats at their collection. While Georgine’s career is still on the rise this collection will put her on the right track to design stardom. It was very functional and is sure to get the attention of a good share of department store buyers.
Who knew how much you could do with black as almost your only color palette, but, then again, everyone isn’t Diesel Black Gold. Their fall 2015 collection was all about black, and included everything from sleek motorcycle jackets, the edgiest version of the little black dress ever, and loads of leather. Diesel is known for their edge factor, so they made sure to give their usual clients what they want. This collection is sure to be hit, as black is everyone’s go to staple, and this collection is one way to do black without looking too simple or boring. Diesel could be looking at some pretty solid revenue numbers for fall 2015.
Jenny Packham created a collection with the red carpet silhouette in mind. Respectfully so, seeing as some of her clientele include Catherine Zeta-Jones, Kate Winslet, and Cameron Diaz. The collection was all about the sleek and sophisticated silhouette and how a dress can hold a woman’s body perfectly. The celebrities won’t be turning away from her anytime soon, and this is sure to be great for her revenue numbers come fall 2015. She was a star with this collection, and kept her A-list clientele quite pleased.
There may not be a designer who can do an A-line dress the way Lela Rose can. Her fall 2015 collection also included beautiful pastels and tassled separates. She knows how to use all the right details to her advantage and curate a magnificent collection. With retailers the likes of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus after you, you must be doing something right. She’s sure to be on the buyers most wanted list this season after this stellar collection. She’s building quite the reputation for herself, and it looks like she’ll have the revenue numbers to go with it.
Pedro del Hierro Madrid’s designer, Carmen March, wanted to create a collection surrounding the theme “girls just wanna have fun.” The patterns on the dresses were designed to look how they would look under the lighting in a club. The problem with this is it just created one too many variations of the same look. While the look might get the attention of a buyer wanting a piece or two it isn’t really a collection anyone is going to want in bulk, as it was just far too much of the same thing over and over. The collection was beautiful, but it proved that it is possible for a designer to be too cohesive. Designers should never be afraid to let loose with their creativity, and it seemed like March was holding something back.
For his fall 2015 runway show, the incomparable Naeem Khan had a graffiti mural commissioned as part of the art direction for the show, which was in strong contrast to the refined elegance of his beautiful gowns, with one gown in particular standing above the rest. His black gold beaded T-shirt gown which was easily the envy of every designer at NYFW a hundred times over. With his dresses often landing celebrities on the best dressed list of numerous fashion publications he has a lot to live up to, but it seems like he may have even outdone himself. These dresses are sure to go flying off the racks, many of which may even land on next award season’s red carpet.
Michael Costello seems to have shifted the direction of his dresses towards a looser fitting silhouette. The result was not as wonderful as one would hope. The designer in the past had more silhouettes that were more form fitting to the body, but his most recent collection left the body plenty of room to be free, but it just wasn’t what was to be expected from the self-taught and skilled designer. It’s best he go back to his basics, and stick to what he knows.
Diesel Black Gold might have some tough competition for the edgiest all black look contest, because Skingraft had one knockout of a collection at NYFW. The collection was all about the edgy dark and mysterious gentleman, who also managed to have mastered street wear style. It was refreshing from the more traditional suit and tie and magazine cover looks usually featured at NYFW, and it’s sure to get Skingraft designer Christopher Cota his share of attention. He’s ne to keep your eye on, because Skingraft is showing plenty of promise with this collection.
While Zang Toi’s fall 2015 collection didn’t include many of the extremely opulent gowns we’ve come to love, the collection was still nothing shy of glamorous. The collection was titled “Mystique Beauty of Venice” and what a beauty it was. The collection included pantsuits, shift dresses, and capes galore. It was very Italian, and very classy, and very dark, beautiful, and mysterious. Toi hit the mark with this collection, and is sure to be on every buyers must have list this year.
Lupe Gajardo is considered the prodigy child of Latin America, in terms of designers that is. There is a lot riding on her reputation in terms of Latin American designers, so she made sure to live up to expectations. Her collection was a bohemian masterpiece that included patchwork denim pants, boyfriend cut sweaters, and a black mesh dress perfect for an afternoon at the villa. The designers bohemian aesthetic is sure to earn her a very specific crop of fans, but ones that will love her work for years to come. With stylists the like of Rachel Zoe capitalizing on the Boho Chic look, Gajardo is sure to have a market. Great success is in store for the designer, and the level of applause at her collection showed that she was getting the attention of all the right buyers and editors.